The personal jewelry collection of the late Austrian philanthropist and art collector, Heidi Horten, will go on sale at Christie’s Geneva in May, for an overall estimate of $150 million. This incredible figure for a single collection far outstrips Christie’s previous $100 million-plus sales records for the Elizabeth Taylor Collection and Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence and includes stand-out pieces that are some of the finest examples of jewelry art and craftsmanship in the world.
The exact details of the 700-piece collection were until recently the subject of swirling rumor in the collecting community, but Christie’s confirmed last week that the estate includes iconic jewels both historical and contemporary, by Harry Winston, Tiffany, Cartier and more. In addition to a significant collection of jade jewelry, the estate includes a large number of pieces by Italian jewelry house Bulgari, illustrating 50 years of the Maison’s design and craftsmanship prowess.
As well as philanthropy and medical research, proceeds from the sale will support The Heidi Horten Collection of modern art in Vienna, Austria, which opened just before she died in June 2022 housing her significant collection of modern and contemporary art. According to Anthea Peers, President, Christie’s EMEA, the auction represents “a historic moment, for Christie’s to have the privilege of offering one of the world’s finest and most important jewelry collections originating from Europe. Furthermore, to witness a philanthropic effort of this scale is as rare as it is remarkable.” The money raised is expected to finance the museum’s operations for decades to come.
Amongst the sale highlights, is the storied Briolette of India diamond necklace by Harry Winston, and the 25-carat Sunrise Ruby ring by Cartier, considered one of the most exceptional gemstones in the world. A three-strand natural pearl necklace, also by Harry Winston, could go for up to $10 million, thanks to an 11 carat pink cushion diamond clasp. As they prepare for the record-breaking auction, Christie’s International Head of Jewellery Rahul Kadhaika and Geneva jewellery specialist Max Fawcett explain what makes the Heidi Horten collection so special
What do you think is the most significant piece in the collection?
Rahul Kadhaika: The Briolette of India is an incredible diamond, cut by celebrated diamond cutter Atanik Eknayan in Neuilly, France in 1908-9. It is featured, suspended from a large natural pearl, in Hans Nadelhoffer’s famous book on Cartier Jewels. The American philanthropist George Blumenthal purchased the stone from Cartier in 1910 and in 1946 his widow sold the stone to Harry Winston. A year later the stone was sold to an Indian Maharaja, in a jewel that was designed to be worn as a pendant to a necklace, a clip, or a diadem. It remained in the Maharaja’s possession until he passed and Winston repurchased it in 1956. It was subsequently sold to Mrs. I. W. Killam of Canada and purchased a third time by Winston in 1967.
In 1971 the Briolette was sold to Mr. and Mrs. Horten and has remained in the collection for 52 years. This is the first time that this 90 carat D color elegantly shaped Briolette is offered for sale at auction.
Max Fawcett: The Sunrise ruby is the most important ruby to have ever been offered at auction. Over 25 carats and ‘pigeon blood’ red in color, it previously sold at auction for $30m in Geneva 2014. The ruby possesses a highly attractive homogenous color and fine purity alongside exceptional brilliance. It is undoubtedly one of the rarest gems on earth.
The sale includes both modern and historical pieces, how are you expecting buyers to react to each of these categories?
RH & MF: Very well and enthusiastically as the sale offers different price points from $10,000 to over $10 million. This offering holds a piece for each collector, might he or she be novice to collecting, or a very established collector.
What did Horten look for when she was collecting?
RH & MF: Pleasure. If she fell for a piece she sometimes asked the Maisons to created it for her in different gold tones, or with sapphires and rubies. This collection was a rumor amongst jewel collectors, as nobody knew exactly what or how much she possessed.
Aside from its combined value, what sets the Heidi Horten collection apart?
RH & MF: She collected over 60 years with a trained eye, and combined modern jewellery design and historic pieces beautifully, as well as building a collection of over 30 exceptional jade jewels, collected with an equivalent eye and knowledge to any Asian collector.
Are there any other particular areas of focus in the collection?
RH & MF: Mrs. Horten must have been Bulgari’s best customer as this is the largest offering of Bulgari jewels ever to come to auction, with around 130 pieces, showcasing 50 years of the best designs from the Italian Maison.
What are your thoughts on the wider market for estate jewellery at the moment?
RH & MF: Very strong, at the moment. We recently sold jewels from the Rockefeller Estate, from the Getty Estate and the Eisenhower estate which will be sold in NY this June. The market for estate jewellery continues to grow with more and more collectors searching for the best vintage jewels, especially those of great provenance.
The Heidi Horten Collection will be sold in two live auctions and an online sale in Geneva 3-15 May, followed by a second online sale in November. Around 40 pieces are currently on show in Hong Kong, and 400 of the 700-piece collection will be on view at the Hotel des Bergues in Geneva, Switzerland, 7-12 May.