It might sound like a broken record, but every wine region in Italy – that’s twenty in all – is beautiful. Of course, there’s beautiful and then there’s stunning. The Amalfi Coast in Campania – yes, there are vineyards planted there – offers some of the most amazing viticultural panoramas anywhere in the world, and owe it to yourself to see the hillside vineyards in the Barolo zone in Piedmont or the remarkable plantings in the Etna district in Sicily.
Right up there for must-see vineyards are those planted in Alto Adige in northern Italy; it seems that every possible square inch that could be planted to vineyards in this region has been, be they valley floor or hillsides. As this is a cool climate – the region borders with Austria – white grapes are of primary importance, representing 65% of plantings; this is broken down into several varietals such as Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon (Blanc) and Gewürztraminer, while reds such as Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir, Schiava and Lagrein represent much of the top reds.
Let’s look at examples of Alto Adige wines, beginning with the whites:
Pinot Grigio Eisacktal Cantina Valle Isarco 2023 – While Pinot Grigio has become incredibly popular in many countries, numerous examples are far too often one-dimensional, as its popularity has resulted in numerous simple wines with little character. Yet, there are notable versions made today in cool climates in Italy, particularly in the regions of Vallee d’Aosta and Friuli, while Alto Adige is also home to top Pinot Grigio, thank to ideal climate and the approach of so many producers here who aim to craft a Pinot Grigio of complexity and harmony.
The 2023 Pinot Grigio from Cantina Valley Isarco in far northern Alto Adige is a well-made Pinot Grigio of above average quality. While it is not a wine meant to be aged for lengthy periods of time, it is inviting with its aromas of red apples, pear and dried flowers, and is nicely balanced with good acidity and very good varietal character; enjoy it on its own or with lighter salads or young cow’s cheeses over the next two to three years. (89)
Pinot Bianco Pfitscher “Longarei” 2022 – While Pinot Grigio is the most widely planted white varietal in Alto Adige, Pinot Bianco is more recognized as sort of an everyday wine to pair with a wide range of foods at lunch. This example from Pfitscher is from four to seven-year-old vines situated between 500-700 meters above sea level, and like most examples is fermented and aged in steel tanks.. Displaying aromas of saffron, golden apples and quince, this is medium bodied with impressive ripeness, good acidity and excellent typicity. Well balanced and appealing, enjoy over the next three to six years with foods ranging from sautéed chicken to sea bass. (92)
Weissburgunder / Pinot Bianco 2022 St. Michael Eppan – Pinot Bianco is also known as Weissburgunder, its German name; this is a bi-lingual region, with signs in Italian and German; Alto Adige is also referred to as Südtirol (“South Tyrol”). Displaying aromas of melon, spearmint and dried yellow flowers, this is medium-bodied with good freshness and weight on the palate, along with good acidity and persistence, with a dry, clean finish that has delicate notes of green herbs. Enjoy with a variety of dishes from mild, young cow’s cheese to lighter seafood over the next two to three years. (90)
Kerner “Preaepositus” 2023 Abbazia di Novacella – Abbazia di Novacella, the northernmost winery in Alto Adige is one of the most acclaimed. Their entire portfolio of white wines offers the trademark vibrant characteristics of this territory; well-balanced with excellent complexity and impressive structure, their Praepositus line of wines is outstanding. This includes the humble Kerner, a grape that has Riesling-like qualities.
There are intriguing aromas of pear, melon, geranium and a hint of honeysuckle. Medium-full, with a rich mid-palate, there is good acidity, notable complexity and a lengthy finish with bright fruit and a pleasant note of ginger. This is one of the more impressive examples of Kerner I have tasted in a few years. Enjoy now and over the next two to five years. (92)
Sylvaner 2023 Strasserhof – Sylvaner is a specialty of Alto Adige; this too displays Riesling-like character, albeit in a lighter approach. Matured for seven months in stainless steel (60%) and large oak barrels (40%). Aromas of melon, apple peel, fusel and a hint of spiced pear. Medium-bodied with very good concentration. There is very good varietal character, good acidity and an off-dry finish. Enjoy with lighter seafood over the next three to four years. (90)
Riesling 2023 Manni Nössing – The cool climate of Alto Adige is an ideal home for the Riesling grape; the finest producers here capture all the qualities of this grape in a style that combines expressive aromatics with impressive aging potential. I’ve enjoyed every wine I’ve tasted from Manni Nössing, and this 2023 Riesling is a fine example of the soulful approach at this winery. Classic aromas of lime, fusel, pear and dandelion. Medium-bodied with good acidity, impressive varietal purity, and a well-balanced, dry finish. Enjoy over the next three to six years. (91)
Chardonnay “Kalik” 2022 Nals Magreid – Naturally, Chardonnay is produced in Alto Adige, and while it is not the most important white wine here, there are numerous impressive offerings. This wine from Nals Magreid, a leading cooperative producer, displays pleasant varietal aromas of lemon curd, red apple and magnolias. Medium-bodied, with good acidity and varietal character, this is straightforward and somewhat commercial. Enjoy over the next two to three years. (88)
Gewürztraminer Riserva Brentall 2017 Kurtatsch – Gewürztraminer is the white wine of Alto Adige. Displaying some of the most unmistakable aromas of any white wine – grapefruit, lanolin and yellow roses along with spicy notes of lychee (the word “gewurz” in German means “spice’) – Gewürztraminer is a highly distinctive wine that has its fans as well as those who can’t get used to its singular profile. Once you try a first-class example, you’ll understand the fervor with this wine.
Deep golden yellow; textbook aromas of lychee, grapefruit, ginger and yellow roses. Medium-full, with impressive concentration and good persistence. The finish has delicate notes of ginger and saffron. There is a an appealing oiliness on the palate, but I’d prefer a bit more acidity; enjoy over the next three to five years. (91)
Now on to the reds:
Schiava Meraner Schickenburg “Graf” 2023 Kellerei Meran – Schiava – aka Vernatsch – is an Alto Adige original; a red grape that is a true charmer with its lively acidity and moderate tannins. While it is clearly a red wine, it’s lighter than most and is reminiscent in some ways to a complex, dry rosé, especially when served with a slight chill. Cantina Merano produces multiple versions of Schiava; this is their most seductive.
There are attractive aromas of Queen Anne cherry, red currant, cumin and carnation. Medium-bodied with excellent ripeness, very good acidity, moderate tannins, impressive persistence and a distinct savory character in the finish. Offering beautiful varietal purity, this is quite distinctive and very appealing. This would pair well with Mediterranean cuisines or vegetables dishes with lentils. Enjoy over the next three to five years. (93)
Pinot Nero “Patricia” 2021 Girlan – The red wines from Alto Adige tend to be overshadowed by the whites, which is a shame, given the quality and uniqueness of the local reds. Pinot Nero (as Pinot Noir is locally known) performs brilliantly here, with the finest versions displaying the bright cherry fruit and finesse this wine is known for.
Girlan is a Pinot Nero specialist; their Patricia bottling is a blend of three sites, and is aged in large oak casks for 12 months. Bright, medium garnet; aromas of Queen Anne cherry, black plum and hints of blueberry and marjoram. Medium-full and well balanced, there is good acidity, along with medium-weight tannins and good persistence. Nice varietal character; relatively straightforward; enjoy over the next two to five years. (89)
Pinot Nero “Glen” 2021 Castelfelder – From 10–30-year-old vines planted at elevations between 350-850 meters. Bright, medium deep garnet; aromas of wild cherry, marjoram and dried pink and red roses. Medium-full, with impressive depth of fruit, medium-full tannins, evident wood notes, lively acidity and excellent persistence. I love the varietal purity and complexity of this wine. Enjoy this over the next four to eight years. (92)
Lagrein Berger Gei Riserva 2021 Ignaz Neidrist – Lagrein (pronounced lah- graiyne) is an indigenous red variety of Alto Adige that is quite different from other red cultivars here in that there is a good deal of tannins; sometimes the wines are slilghtly bitter upon release and need a few years to soften, but at its best, Lagrein is a red with impressive depth of fruit and structure. Medium-full with ripe black cherry and plum fruit and medium-weight tannins, with well-integrated oak, this example from Neidrist will be in ideal shape in another three to five years, but would be quite enjoyable for dinner tonight paired with leg of lamb or T-bone steak. (91)
To conclude the article, I will focus on two top producers: Cantina Tramin and Elena Walch, both located in the village of Tramin (Termeno is the Italian name for the village).
Cantina Tramin – Alto Adige is known for its cooperative wineries where dozens or even hundreds of local farmers supple grapes to the company; these growers are also winery members. One of the very best is Cantina Tramin, established in 1898; today there are 160 member growers. Their motto is “la casa del Gewürztraminer” – the house of Gewürztraminer; their Nussbaumer version is world-class.
Pinot Grigio Unterebner 2023 – From vineyards 10-30 years old on hillside vineyards with gravelly soils. Matured in large and medium-sized casks. Medium-bodied with a rich mid-palate; aromas of red apples, pear and a touch of honeysuckle. Impressive complexity, very good acidity, excellent typicity and very good persistence. The finish is quite dry and displays subtle notes of thyme and basil. There is much greater complexity with this wine than most other examples of Pinot Grigio; enjoy over the next three to four years. (91)
Stoan 2023 – A blend of Chardonnay (65%), Sauvignon (20%), Pinot Bianco (10%) and Gewürztraminer (5%); aged in French and Austrian oak for 11 months. Bright, medium deep yellow; expressive aromas of Anjou pear, melon, yellow crocus and a hint of grapefruit. Medium-full, with excellent palate depth. There is very good acidity, well-integrated oak notes and a complex finish with notable persistence and distinct notes of white spice. This is an inspired blend; enjoy over the next five to seven years. (93)
Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2023 – Bright, medium deep yellow; lovely textbook aromas of yellow roses, lanolin, ginger and a hint of anise. Medium-full, with impressive concentration and excellent ripeness; there is a slight oiliness on the palate, along with very good acidity and significant persistence. This is a classic Alto Adige Gewürztraminer, arguably the best example of its type in Italy. The finish has distinctive notes of ginger and saffron. Beautiful wine! Enjoy over the next five to eight years. Best paired with Thai or Oriental cuisine, while roast turkey is a heavenly match. (94)
Elena Walch – An architect by trade, Elena Walch married into one of the most important wine families in Alto Adige, and has overseen tremendous growth for her wines over the past four decades; today her daughters Julia and Karoline are the fifth-generation leaders. The wines from two of their estates, Castel Ringberg and Vigna Kastelaz, are routinely excellent, and recently their Pinot Nero “Ludwig” has joined the ranks of the finest examples of this typology in the region.
Sauvignon Castel Ringberg 2023 – 60% steel fermented; 40% in large oak and French barrique. Aromas of pear, cilantro, oregano and a touch of leek. Medium-full, with excellent ripeness, very good acidity, restrained wood notes and impressive persistence; the finish displays notes of green herbs and wet stone. I love the typicity and harmony of this wine that is approachable now but will improve over the next few years; peak in four to six years. (92)
Gewürztraminer Vigna Kastelaz 2023 -Textbook aromas of lanolin, yellow roses and lychee. Medium-full, with very good richness on the palate. There is very good acidity and persistence and notes of ginger and white and yellow spice in the finish. Beautiful varietal character and complexity; enjoy over the next three to five years. (92)
Lagrein Riserva Castel Ringberg 2022 – 100% Lagrein from vineyards 330 to 400 meters above sea level; matured in French barriques. Bright, intense purple; aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate, myrtle and a hint of tobacco. Medium-full, this is quite ripe and has a rich mid-palate and excellent persistence. There is balancing acidity, medium-full, youthful tannins and ample wood notes. Give this time to round out. Peak in six to eight years. (92)
Pinot Nero “Ludwig” 2022 – From old vines; part of which are trained to pergola (overhead canopy). Bright, medium deep garnet; aromas of spiced cherry, currant, strawberry preserves and marjoram. Medium-full, with impressive ripeness, very good acidity, nicely managed wood notes, and medium-weight tannins; there is very good persistence; and the finish displays notes of thyme and walnut. Beautiful varietal character; this is a classic Alto Adige Pinot Nero; peak in six to eight years, perhaps a year or two longer. (93)