The saying, “March comes in like a lion, goes out like a lamb” was almost true until today—a chilly rainy day in the northeast that had me reaching into the freezer for some comfort soup.
Hearty soups are among my favorite pairings with white wines—from a dry Riesling to a round French blend. A long-time favorite recipe in my rotation was developed to pair with dry Rieslings from Alsace, which, with sausage as a main ingredient, was a fine match. Over the years, I’ve tinkered a bit, added cruciferous greens (kale or broccoli rabe) for texture, and brought in other white partners such a Pinot Blanc or Petit Manseng. Here are the bottles I enjoyed this winter and into this weekend with the soup, and the recipe is below. I’m ready for lamb-like weather soon, but will also miss my cozy winter soup and white pairings.
Cormorant Chardonnay Zabala Vineyard 2021, Arroyo Secco, Monterey County. This lighter interpretation of Californian Chardonnay lets the pure apple and pear fruits shine through. Low intervention, low manipulation and a light hand of the winemaker.
Villa Huesgen Pinot Blanc 2022, Mosel. The motto is “made by happy people” and that transmits to this pleasurable wine. Round, medium bodied with cooked lemon / compote, this is an easy-going wine that doesn’t compete with the toothsome ingredients of this soup.
Villa Huesgen Blue Slate Riesling 2022, Mosel. Still made by happy people ^^, this comes in an elegant blue bottle and shows good Riesling markers of petrol and lemon curd. This is dry, warm and round—not an ultra-racy version, but tasty, pleasant and an excellent gateway into Riesling for those not certain how to navigate the sometimes-tricky waters.
Ferrari Carano Pinot Grigio 2023, California. Tart and lemony, still fresh after opening an forgetting for two weeks (!!) Apple and quince play along with a little lees-y / yogurt note. Savory herbal finish.
Peyton Paige Sauvignon Blanc McGrail Vineyards, 2023, Livermore Valley. A very tropic version, with floral notes, green apple and citrus on play, yet rich and round.
Pazo Cilleiro Alberino 2022 Rias Baixes D.O. Medium bodied with a tart lemon curd, ginger highlights, more lemon and racy acid, a bit of saline. Sprightly, mouthwatering, can hold its own with the sausage and tortellini in the soup.
Chateau Mukhrani Goruli Mtsvane 2021, Georgia. A fuller-bodied white from the Kartli region, made of one of Georgia’s indigenous grapes. Round and rich, tropical fruited and plush late-summer fruit. Sauv Blanc vibes.
Altitudes Ixsir Blanc 2023, Lebanon. A blend of 40% Obeidy, 40% Muscat and 20% Viognier, this is a golden-hued, wine from the Batroun District redolent of heady white flowers. Rich and round; demands a toothsome soup.
Babich Sauvignon Blanc, 2021 Marlborough, NZ. Organic, made from select blocks. A couple of years of age has mellowed this SB into a less green-inflected wine into something rounder, smoky and flinty. Tart and fresh with lemony fruit and lime blossom, but without the “feline” character usually associated with Marlborough.
Stonecap Estate Grown Goose Ridge Chardonnay 2023, Columbia Valley. On the lighter side of the Chardonnay spectrum, this glittery lemon yellow wine has a fresh, direct hit of lemon fruit; savory and rich without being opulent, a little Burgundian Village in style. Rich and round and easy.
Count Karolyi Gruner Vetliner 2023, Hungary. People think of Austria when they think of Gruner, but this is a nice surprise from farther east. Round and apple-y with a little hazel note and lemon curd. Burgundian Village vibes. Dry, simple and fresh.
Cave de Lugny Macon Lugny Vin De Bourgogne Les Charmes 2022. This Chardonnay is from a well-known cooperative in the Mâconnais, which sources these grapes from a historic vineyard in southern Burgundy. Fresh citrus glides over the creamy, generous palate layered with a bit of hazel and honeycomb.
Lange Twins Fume Blanc 2022 Jahant Woods (Lodi) AVA. Six months on neutral French and American oak give this a bit of smokiness and a mellow texture that does not interfere with the dominant notes of citrus—grapefruit, lemon and lime—and some brush savory element.
Domaine D’Orfeuilles “Les Coudraies” 2019, Vouvray (Loire). Made of 100% Chenin Blanc, this semi-dry wine has a smoky, flinty aspect, as well as some age on it. Medium+ bodied glycerol, with hazel notes and creamy umami. More textured and earthy than fruit (but yellow fruit, if any), this is a savory, pleasurable wine.
Charles Frey Riesling La Messe du Matin 2023, Alsace. Solod Reisling markers for petrol. Lemon and savory herbs with a lemon overlay. Dry, made from old vines and rested eight months on lees. Demeter certified.
Tenuta Carretta Campfranco Langhe Riesling 2022. Nice petrol markers but more subtle than what you might find in Mosel Rieslings. Lemon sine, clean, super dry and fresh.
RECIPE: Sausage, White Bean and Tortellini Soup
Serves: Makes 6-8 servings
16 oz. pork and beef smoked sausage (or can substitute kielbasa of your choice)
1 cup chopped fresh fennel bulb
1 onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 tbsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
3 (14.5 oz.) cans chicken broth
1 (14.5 oz.) can vegetable broth
3 cups water
4 carrots, sliced
2 (15 oz.) cans cannellini beans
1 (9 oz.) package fresh cheese tortellini
1/2 cup shredded Asiago or Parmesan cheese
Cut and discard leafy stalks from fennel bulb; trim end. Chop fennel bulb and onion; mince garlic. Remove thyme leaves from stems and chop. Cut sausage into 1/4-inch thick slices.
Heat oil in a heavy 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Sauté fennel, onion, garlic, thyme and pepper for 3 minutes. Add sausage; stir and cook 5 more minutes. Add broth and 3 cups water; bring to a boil over high heat.
Meanwhile, peel and slice carrots into bite-sized pieces. Rinse and drain beans.
Stir carrots and beans into boiling broth mixture. Return to a boil; add tortellini and stir. Reduce heat to medium-high and cook 5 minutes, until carrots and tortellini are tender. Season to taste.
Ladle soup into bowls and top with cheese. Serve while hot.