By Joseph Hammond
(NAPLES, Italy) Sometimes, from great catastrophes comes epic renewal. Take Pompeii, the bustling Roman town famously wiped out in a volcanic eruption in 79 AD. Its well-preserved ruins remain a tourist attraction. Nearby, Naples (literally New City) became one of Europe’s thriving cities.
Naples is indeed being reborn all the time. The Covid-19 pandemic is the latest disaster to strike the city. Naples suffered under the pandemic, and more so did tailoring for men’s suits. With all meetings on Zoom, people felt little need to purchase fine tailoring for work.
“Neapolitan tailoring is unique,” said Ilario Esposito, the CEO of Ilario Esposito Satoria. Ilario championed the region’s unique style since 2012, “The Neapolitian fitting is meant to be organic, and given the Mediterranean climate perhaps you can say it is more relaxed. This allows for more natural movement and comfort,” he said. His many clients include individuals in many lines of work. Celebrities, CEOs, and football players from all over Italy.
Such flexibility is increasingly essential for the modern businessman who might go from the office during the day to a formal event in the evening and an informal after-party.
Ilario Esposito Sartiorial is based in Sant’ Anastasia, a village on the slopes of Mt. Vesuvius, the volcano responsible for the disaster of 79 AD.
Business suits have been a fact of life for workers since the late 18th century. The recent pandemic’s overhang is over, and more and more people are wearing suits to work again.
“One of the things that has changed for all suits is not just is there is more for individual style and flair,” said Esposito, “obviously for workers today, there is more flexibility in what they wear, but for many managers wearing a suit every day is a way to signify their position.”
To please his parents, Esposito initially pursued a law degree. Yet, his heart was always in fashion, and he turned to the craft of suit-making. The Neopolitan business culture can make it challenging to break into, with many businesses having strong local and informal ties. Esposito has built his network of suppliers and collaborators, including major fabric producers like Loro Piana. The Milan-based company provides him with some of its famed vicuña wool for his light-as-a-shirt jacket.
The brand also produces shoes through exclusive arrangements with some of Italy’s elite artisanal manufacturers.
A chance encounter helped take his business to the international level through an unlikely partnership. Taiwo Meghoma is a Nigerian British fashion director and celebrity stylist. He has styled celebrities for the Oscars and BAFTAS and is the fashion director of an upcoming diplomatic fashion show, Weaving International in London.
Meghoma was drawn to Neapolitan tailoring for several reasons.
“From the global perspective there is a lot of interest in what is going on in Southern Italy from what were doing at Esposito Sartoria to events like the Puglia Fashion Week,” he said.
In an era when many designers are considering how artificial intelligence will impact their workforce or business model, there is something refreshingly old school about the Neapolitan approach. Neapolitan brands like Barba di Napoli and E. Marinella others proudly label “Cutio A Mano” – cut by hand. While many brands are employing less workers, this has led to a shift in production being more bespoke and artisanal.
“The pandemic did see a drop in sales from office workers, but it is quickly rebranding. People have always wanted to look good, and that has never changed. If you visit the ruins of Pompeii, you can see many images of people who were painted and wore their finest clothes. I think suits are as much a status symbol of importance and wealth. The future of suits in the office remains strong.”
This year will be a big one for Esposito. He is moving his shop to a standalone location and, on a personal level, recently welcomed the birth of his first child. The business is based in Sant’Anastasia, a village on Mt Vesuvius where Lamburginis and Jaguars park inauspicious in the shade of palm trees.
“We will make it even easier for businessmen with time and the shopping experience, even those shopping for business want to feel special,” he said standing in what will soon be the brand’s standalone show room.