When most people think about famous pilgrimage treks, open to people of all faiths and religions, the Camino de Santiago in Spain often comes to mind. However, the Shikoku Pilgrimage walk in Japan is increasing getting a lot of buzz and for good reason.
The smallest of Japan’s four main islands, Shikoku is a largely mountainous, rural region. It is primarily famous for the 1,200 km (over 700 miles) 88 Temple Shikoku Pilgrimage, associated with the Buddhist monk Kukai (774-835), that circles the whole island. The pilgrimage is traditionally completed on foot, but modern pilgrims, who are known locally as henro, also use cars, taxis, buses, motorcycles or bicycles to complete their journey. Regardless of how they travel, however, the henro, with staff in hand and wearing their distinctive white garb and conical hats, are affectionately welcomed by the people of Shikoku who ply them with osettai (gifts such as free snacks and drinks) to help them on their way.
“A key element distinguishing the Shikoku Pilgrimage from other routes is that, unlike pilgrimages to holy sites such as Santiago de Compostela which involve a one-way journey toward a final destination, Shikoku Pilgrimage is a circle, the route encircles the island of Shikoku,” says Eiji Matsumoto, Director of Attraction Promotion, Kochi Visitors & Convention Association in Kochi Prefecture. Also, unlike the large crowds that undertake the Camino each year, the Shikoku Pilgrimage is much less crowded and it’s not uncommon to have the trails to yourself. “Shikoku has long nurtured a deeply ingrained culture of warmly welcoming pilgrims, preserving a tradition of hospitality that supports those undertaking the challenging journey around the island. In recent times, when over tourism has become a recognized issue across Japan, the ability to receive such warm words and hospitality regardless of nationality elevates the Shikoku pilgrimage into an even more special experience.”
One of the big draws—of which there are many—are the lack of crowds in Shikoku. Often those walking the Shikoku pilgrimage have the trail to themselves.
The island of Shikoku comprises four prefectures: Kōchi, Kagawa, Ehime, and Tokushima. The 88 temples are found throughout the island. Walking the entire route would take more than 40 days, so many people walk a section at a time, often with a tour operator who plans the accommodations, meals and walking routes.
There are numerous reasons the Shikoku pilgrimage stands out. “The interaction with local residents, being surrounded by nature in a variety of settings, and the connection and history of Kōbō Daishi (a famous Japanese Buddhist priest who also goes by the name Kukai) through visiting the pilgrimage temples,” says Matsumoto. “The significant appeal of circumnavigating the island of Shikoku lies in enjoying these three forms of communion, which attracts not only Japanese people but also visitors from overseas.”
Another way the shikoku pilgrimage is unique is that the 88 temples found on route are located in diverse locations. “There are temples by the sea, temples deep in the mountains, and temples perched atop peaks reached only by ropeway,” says Matsumoto. “The journey to these pilgrimage temples requires walking ancient mountain paths, traversing Japan’s rural landscapes, and following the coastline. From picturesque vistas to quintessentially Japanese natural scenery, the Shikoku Pilgrimage’s unique charm lies in being able to pause and appreciate these diverse Japanese landscapes at your own pace.”
The recommended seasons for the Shikoku Pilgrimage are spring (March to April) and autumn (October to November). “Both spring and autumn offer comfortable walking conditions, being neither too hot nor too cold,” says Matsumoto. “Plus, spring brings cherry blossoms and autumn brings colorful foliage, allowing pilgrims to appreciate the seasonal hues while walking.”
“Many Japanese undertake the pilgrimage after retiring,” says Hanako Aono, Supervisor, Tourism and international affairs division, Ehime Prefectural Government. For international tourists a unique aspect of the pilgrimage is that most of the people on the route are Japanese, which gives it a very authentic experience and a way to interact with locals. “International visitors embark on the pilgrimage for a variety of reasons including when feeling stuck in life and when seeking change,” continues Aono. Others are interested in Japan’s traditions and history, while others enjoy hiking and trekking. Those interested in Buddhism are also drawn to this route. For nature lovers, Shikoku is a big draw. “Each of the 88 temple sites possesses its own character, with many unique examples: serene mountain temples, temples reached after climbing steep mountains, and temples nestled against cliffs,” says Aono.
In Japan, the Kumano Kodo and Nakasendo pilgrimage routes are renowned alongside the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Many foreign visitors undertaking the Shikoku Pilgrimage have already walked the Kumano Kodo and Nakasendo. “A common observation from such travellers is that while the Kumano Kodo and Nakasendo are well-maintained for tourists, the Shikoku Pilgrimage retains the very paths walked by pilgrims for over a thousand years,” says Anono. “While the Kumano Kodo and Nakasendo have been improved with paths and signage by local DMOs and others to attract visitors and make them easier to walk, the old pilgrimage routes of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, remain largely unchanged from the paths walked by pilgrims a thousand years ago.”
Pilgrims rely on small pilgrimage path markers (sometimes small signs, but often red tape hung from trees). For history enthusiasts or those wishing to deeply understand Japanese history, these pilgrimage routes, less overtly commercialized, are positively received by travelers.
This has been a lot of talk about forest bathing—a phrase that was originally coined in Japan in the 19802 and has taken off around the world. “Forest bathing itself primarily aims to enable modern individuals (particularly working adults) who seldom encounter nature to relax and refresh themselves by engaging their senses in natural surroundings, thereby liberating them from the stress of daily social interactions and electronic devices such as computers,” says Anono. “Consequently, the trekking through nature experienced during the Shikoku pilgrimage may well be considered a form of forest bathing
There are 88 temples along the Shikoku Pilgramage, but certain sections are tourist-friendly and easy to navigate for interntional guests. “The first temple on the pilgrimage route, ‘Reizanji Temple, serves as the starting point. It became the first temple because, following esoteric Buddhist teachings, Naruto City, located at the northeastern corner of Shikoku, was designated as the point of departure. Essential pilgrimage items (such as hats and walking sticks) can also be procured here, Gen Yamasaki, Department Tourism Promotion Division, Tokushima Prefectural Government. “The route from here to the sixth temple, Anrakuji, is well-maintained and highly recommended for pilgrims travelling on foot (a distance achievable in a single day). Furthermore, Anrakuji houses the first temple lodging (shukubo) along the route.”
Walk Japan is a local tour operator that offers an 11-day guided Shikoku Pilgrimage Temple tour.
Tom Orsman, one of Walk Japan’s tour leaders, has guided numerous Shikoku pilgrimage tours. He notes that one of the reasons travelers like this particular tour is that Shikoku, unlike Tokyo or Kyoto, is not as easy to navigate. Having someone plan all the logistics—meals, accommodations, making sure you don’t get lost on the trail—lets travelers focus on the pilgrimage experience and not worry about all the logistics.
“Walk Japan tours try to go to places that are hard to navigate on your own,” says Orsman. “The focus on our tours is to interact with locals; stay at small, unique Japanese inns that have character; use public transportation as much as possible and really allow travelers to immerse themselves in Japanese culture.” Since Shikoku is so rural, many travelers come away feeling like they experienced the real Japan, not just the tourist hot spots. Especially at a time when Japan (like many parts of the world) is feeling the effects of over tourism in hotspots like Kyoto and Tokyo, spending time in rural Shikoku is a great way to speak and interact with locals and really dive deep into Japanese customs, culture and tradition.
In addition to guiding the daily walks and giving history and background of both the temples and the destination, an important part of a Shikoku Pilgrimage trek is finding the right places to stay. “We aim to do the best walks and due to the fact that this region is rural and off-the-beaten path, sometimes that means that we might have inns that are not necessarily considered luxurious, but they do all have character and are often places that foreigners normally don’t frequent,” says Orsman. “Because they know us—we’ve worked closely with these inns, called Ryokan, over the years, we often get an extra special welcome.” He notes that one of the places visited on the Shikoku Pilgrimage tour is Kochi—which is one of the more remote regions that most Westerners don’t even know about, let alone visit. It’s very hard to go there independently, because there’s not a train line there, so that’s one of the highlights for most people.
Another part of the Shikoku pilgrimage tour that is really unique is that it really embraces the onsen culture that is prevalent in Japan. For many Americans, the idea of communal naked bathing is not something they would seek out. “On the Shikoku tour, travelers are kind of forced into onsen culture, because at some of the inns there’s no option outside the onsen. It can be a bit of a culture shock initially, but almost everyone on the trips I’ve led, once they’ve started doing it, they don’t want to stop. One onsen bath a day turns into two and sometimes three. It’s not only about getting cleaning. It’s the ritual of relaxing and taking part of this unique cultural tradition. For many guests, the onsens turn out to the be the highlight of the trip.”
Especially in a post-covid world, there has been a strong trend in slower travel. “One of the things I love about Walk Japan is the regional focus,” says Orsman. “Rather than doing Japan in a couple of broad brushstrokes and focusing on the big cities, the company focuses on a particular region—often rural, often off-the-beaten path. That way you don’t spend so much time traveling from place to place and instead really get to know one area and really interact with locals. It’s a slowing down and more rewarding way to travel. We also have a direct impact—a positive impact—on local communities by supporting them.” It’s a way to bring tourism dollars to regions in a respectful way that the community appreciates. Also, the idea of spending so much time in nature—the focus is on the walks and hikes—brings the practice of mindfulness and intention into focus.