Let’s take a look at award-winning cookbook author Dorie Greenspan’s latest for some inspiration in the “Anytime Cakes” space.
Confessions of a flour-phobe
When it comes to cooking, I know my way around the kitchen. After many years of trial and error and fair bit of success, I have settled into winging-it mode when putting together dishes. There might be a casual glance at a recipe, but my measuring spoons haven’t been used in ages.
Yet baking freaks me out. Those recipes dictate that measurements be precise and protocol be followed. There’s plenty of ways to stumble, and a narrow path to that cake or bread or batch of cookies that looks like it’s been made by a pro.
Still, there’s the occasional temptation to jump into the baking game, especially when it comes to the accessible recipes from accomplished cookbook author, Dorie Greenspan. Her considerable body of work leans into the art of storytelling. There’s always some interesting crumbs of background in the sharing of recipes. It’s compelling reading even if you have no intention of turning on the oven and tackling a flour-focused project.
In her latest – “Anytime Cakes” – there was one entertaining recipe that stood out, offering a gateway for the wannabe baker. It even comes with “Easy” in the title, and there are very few ingredients involved. So, why not give it a shot?
Coincidentally, I’d recently come across a few new flour blends from Bob’s Red Mill. I’m a fan of this employee-owned operation near Portland, Ore. What better way to give the new high-fiber all-purpose flour a whirl?
Baby steps
The intro to “Grammy’s Easy Cake” served up a fun hook.
Dorie writes:
“It was my friend Berna Feuerstein who gave me this recipe and it was her mother, “Grammy” Shirley Spector, who gave it to her. I wish I knew where the recipe originally came from or when Grammy got it (Berna does, too).
Nothing about the way you make this eggless cake plays by the rules as we know them— it’s a wild way to end up with a great cake. But if you follow these directions, minimal as they are, you’ll have a golden-crusted moist, buttery cake that hugs whatever fruit you’ve topped it with — even if on the first try, like me, you’re sure it’s not going to work. At the end of the recipe that Berna sent me, she wrote, “VOILA!” She might just as rightly have said, “TA- DA!” Or “HA!” The cake is such a surprise.”
Minor adjustments
The short list of straightforward ingredients made this seem very approachable. No eggs, just milk, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and butter. Lots of butter.
But first, there was a hiccup I noticed after putting my mise en place together. I didn’t have unsalted butter the recipe called for. And, would the high-fiber all-purpose flour cut it? The recipe calls for all-purpose. Finally, the footnote warns against using frozen fruit, but that’s all I had on hand and I didn’t want to make another trip to the supermarket.
What could go wrong?
Well, after diligently following the instructions, carefully measuring the ingredients, setting the timer and patiently waiting, “Grammy’s Easy Cake” emerged looking, as promised: “a golden-crusted moist, buttery cake that hugs whatever fruit you’ve topped it with.”
How’d it taste?
Some shudder at the adjective “moist” when describing food, but that word was so fitting. This is definitely not a cake that’s fluffy, but it was deeply flavorful and ultra-satisfying. Though the notes suggested serving with whipped cream or ice cream, it was delicious on its own.
That this easy cake turned out so well gave me a welcome boost of confidence. Maybe I’ll try the “Brownie Cake” next.
Grammy’s Easy Cake
- 12 tablespoons (6 ounces; 170 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
- 1 cup (136 grams) all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
- 3/4 cup (150 grams) sugar
- 3/4 cup (180 ml) whole milk
- About 1 1/2 cups (225 grams) blueberries or other fruit (see note above)
- Lightly whipped cream or ice cream, for serving (optional)
Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees F. Have a 9-inch deep-dish glass, ceramic or pottery pie pan at hand. You’re going to serve the cake from the pan, so if you’ve got a pretty one, use it.
Toss the butter into the pie pan, slide the pan into the hot oven and heat until the butter is melted— about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk the flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda and sugar together in a large bowl. Add half of the milk and whisk to moisten the dry ingredients — the mixture will be thick. Pour in the remainder of the milk and whisk until smooth.
Pour the batter into the pan over the butter— do not mix. Or, as Berna wrote, “DO NOT MIX!” And don’t be concerned when the butter slides up and around the batter.
Scatter the berries over the top and, again, “DO NOT MIX!”
Bake the cake for 44 to 48 minutes, or until the butter has been absorbed, the cake is beautifully golden and, most important, a tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. The edges of the cake, which will pull away from the pan if tugged gingerly, will be firmer and darker than the center — good reason for you to check the middle of the cake carefully. Transfer the cake to a rack and let it cool until it’s only just warm or has reached room temperature.
The cake is too soft and fruit- filled to un-mold, so serve it from the pan. If you decide to serve the cake with lightly whipped cream or ice cream, I think Grammy would approve.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Footnote: A word on the berries: Berna said that her mother’s “go- to” were blueberries. When I asked if mom ever used frozen, she answered emphatically, “Never!”
But Berna did concede that other berries are acceptable. Also, soft fruits, such as plums, apricots or peeled peaches, work as long as you cut them into bite-sized pieces.
Storing: Try to serve the cake the day you make it— that’s really when it’s best. If you’ve got leftovers, cover the pan tightly and keep the cake at room temperature; it may be bit heavier when you serve it, but it will still be tasty.
Final note: Greenspan’s book tour is wrapping up with a few dates in December, including a virtual event on Dec. 9 through the Federation of Alliances Françaises USA. To register for this conversation between Dorie Greenspan and Jane Bertch, click here.