There are numerous outstanding wines made in Abruzzo in eastern central Italy, but you could be excused if you weren’t familiar with them. The region for too long was known for rather simple wines that were priced fairly and had wide appeal among consumers. But as far as being considered among the finest wines in the country (with the exception of Emidio Pepe and one or two other producers), the wines of Abruzzo up until the late 20th century were rarely considered anything special.
Today that has changed, as the straightforward wines commonly associated with Abruzzo that are still produced have given way in many cases to offerings made by local artisan producers that have attracted great attention for the region. White (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Pecorino), red (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo) and rosato (Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo) offerings from the region have improved dramatically, and consumers, restaurant and retail wine buyers and wine critics have all paid attention – the wines of Abruzzo are cool!
One of the wineries greatly responsible for this turnaround has been Masciarelli in the province of Chieti. Established in 1981 by Gianni Masciarelli who built one of the largest production facilities and cellars in the region, with a clear message that is was a brand new day for the wine industry in Abruzzo. Sadly, Masciarelli passed away in 2008; today his wife Marina Cvetic is continuing the remarkable work of her late husband.
The Masciarelli firm is something of a small empire, with vineyards in all four provinces in Abruzzo, yet the qualities of the wines remain true to the artisan sprit of Gianni Masciarelli. The classic line (Linea Classica), represents the entry level; there are three wines, bottled with screwcap closures. The best known wines bear the label of Marina Cvetic; there are six wines, of which the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva and the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva. Both these wines offer excellent varietal purity, impressive complexity and beautiful structure; the Trebbiano is often at its best some five to seven years after the vintage, while the Montepulciano ages well for at least a decade, and sometimes as long as 15-20 years.
Additionally, there are three wines that comprise the Villa Gemma line: an Abruzzo Bianco, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo and a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva. These wines are among the richest produced here, and are among the flagship wines of the company.
Cvetic and her team remodeled a 17th century castle not far from the winery called Castello di Semivicoli; once a baronial haven, today it serves as a wine resort, complete with a fine dining restaurant. There are three wines that make up the Castello di Semivicoli portfolio: a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo superiore; a Pecorino, one of Abruzzo’s most charming white wines, and a Rosso, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Montepulciano.
Having met Cvetic both at the winery, and here in the United States, she is one of the nicest people I’ve ever met, one with a nice sense of humor who doesn’t take herself seriously. Together with her winemaker Attilio Alfino, she continues to define the best of the Abruzzo wine industry, crafting offerings that truly speak of the territory in a style that favors varietal purity, harmony and soulful intensity, without ever going over the top. You owe it to yourself to try the wines of Masciarelli and Marina Cvetic.
Here are notes on current releases:
Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore 2024 – Cerasuolo is a beautiful example of how good rosato (rosé) can be in Italy – or anywhere in the world, for that matter. Produced from the Montepulciano grape, this is among the most flavorful and stimulating examples of rosé made today. The aromas of this wine – maraschino cherry, pink roses and sea breeze – are dazzling; there is great freshness, excellent complexity and significant persistence; enjoy this over the next three to five years. Pairing it with duck breast would be heavenly, while it’s also a great accompaniment to pizza! (93)
Castello di Semivicoli Pecorino 2024 – Expressive aromas of pineapple and jasmine; medium bodied with very good acidity and freshness. The finish is dry, there is good persistence, and the wine is very appealing; enjoy on its own or with a seafood salad over the next two to four years. (91)
Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2022 – For anyone who believes Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is a lighter bodied wine to be served as an aperitif, consider this wine. Medium-full to full bodied, with aromas of melon, honey and a touch of vanilla and succulent yellow flowers, this is fermented and aged in French barriques which adds complexity and improves structure. This is quite rich on the palate, has bright acidity and impressive persistence along with a note of minerality in the finish; here is a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo that makes a statement – this is the future of this wine type. Rich enough to pair with branzino or a veal chop, this is outstanding; enjoy now or over the next five to seven years. (95)
Marina Cvetic Chardonnay 2022 – There are international varietals employed here; this Chardonnay is a highlight. Fermented in barrique, there are lush aromas of baked apples, Anjou pear and a hint of butterscotch. Medium-full, with a rich finish that displays notes of almond; the oak notes are evident, but well integrated. Pair with rich seafood, and enjoy over the next six to eight years. (93)
Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2020 – 100% Montepulciano from five different vineyards that are fermented separately and then blended together and aged in barriques for more than one year. Medium-deep purple; aromas of blackberry, clove, myrtle and black plum – classic Montepulciano perfumes. Medium-bodied, with excellent ripeness, nicely balanced tannins and an round, clean finish. Enjoy over the next five to eight years. (91) I also enjoyed the Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from 2020 at the winery. Here was a 25-year old wine that tasted as though it was seven or eight years of age; offering superb complexity and impressive richness on the palate, and could age well for another eight to twelve years, possibly longer. (95)