Different individuals have different requirements for what makes a restaurant special. For some, it’s a gourmet evening complete with such foods as caviar, lobster, or filet mignon; for others, it’s the splendor of an dining room created by an architect or designer that drips of the coolest and latest in glamor. For me, I have more simple needs – just provide me with very good food, professional service and a comfortable atmosphere.
These three things are in abundance at La Grande Boucherie in Chicago, a classy bistro that is one of several locations in the United States (New York City, Miami, Washington D.C.). I recently dined at the Chicago location in the bustling River North district (for non-Chicagoans- you could spend a week in River North and not make it to every restaurant or watering hole; even better is the classy clientele that frequents this neighborhood), and was dutifully impressed that evening.
The chef is a long-time Chicago favorite, Michael Taus. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Taus soon returned to Chicago, where he excelled in several restaurants over his 25-year career; he was part of the team at the legendary Charlie Trotter’s, was executive chef as Jimbos and Uncle Frogs, and eventually opened his own restaurant Zealous in west suburban Elmhurst, before moving it to downtown Chicago in 1999, where it was one of the city’s most critically acclaimed restaurants for 16 years ( I dined there a few times and enjoyed some memorable meals).
I asked Taus about his menu, and if he has the freedom to present any food he wants, given the other U.S. locations – would the menus all look the same? (The Chicago location, by the way, opened in February 2024, with Taus joining the team five months later.) He told me that at each restaurant there are core classics, such as Niçoise Salad, foie gras mousse and an aged steak program. “While there may be slight variations or seasonal additions, the heart of the menu remains consistent across all locations, staying true to the restaurant’s signature French identity,” Taus explains.
There are the usual bistro starters, such as oysters, lobster and clams, while the salads here, especially the Caesar Salad, and a marvelous Grilled Asparagus Salad, are first-rate; the latter has a warm tapenade vinaigrette and triple cream crostini; there is a slight crunchiness to the asparagus that I loved. This is a highly distinctive salad and a must-try.
The steaks here are extremely tender and perfectly cooked; I loved the New York Strip with frites; a mouthwatering combination. I also recommend the Duo of Seared Duck Breast and Confit Leg served with a cold cannellini bean salad (an inspired accompaniment) and orange sauce.
The wine list has been well thought out, with numerous classic French (and California) wine offerings; there are several exquisite Champagnes from producers such as Louis Roederer, Drappier and Paul Bara that are fairly priced. There are also several excellent red Burgundies; I opted for the Mercurey Reserve “Vielles Vignes” (“old vines”) from the famed producer Faiveley. This is a gorgeous Burgundy with perfectly ripe fruit and silky tannins; it was ideal with the duck, and at just over $100 per bottle, an excellent value on this list; it was served slightly chilled, a perfect temperature to enjoy this wine with the meal; compliments to the wine director.
Desserts include sorbets and ice creams, mousse au chocolat and la tarte au citron. This last option is highly recommended for lemon lovers (which includes a lot of us); there are even a few lemon segments to liven this dish up.
The dining room is large, with 355 seats for diners on two floors (only the street level dining room was open on the Wednesday night I went); there is also a handsome large central bar, as well as a private dining space.
I asked Taus what his goal was with La Grande Boucherie. “Our aim is to create a warm, neighborhood French Bistro where guests can enjoy classic dishes made with care. Alongside our menu, we offer an extensive wine list, unique cocktails, lively music, and some of the best-aged steaks in town. It’s all about bringing the spirit of Paris to your table in a relaxed and inviting setting.”
Michael Taus and his team and management have followed up on that plan very well, I’m happy to report.
431 N. Dearborn Street, Chicago