Whenever Cinco de Mayo rolls around, I can always count on a few friends to ask me to explain the difference between two agave-based spiritsâtequila and mezcal. Hereâs the quick version: Every tequila is a mezcal, but not all mezcals are tequilas. And if you really want to show off at the bar, tequila can only made from from Blue Weber agave while mezcal is produced from any variety of agave or a blend of several.
And both spirits are enjoying a serious boom in America. According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States (DISCUS), agave spirits was the second-fastest growing category by revenue ($886 million in 2022) and by volume (there were 3.1 million 9-liter case sold in the U.S.) last year. And along with American whiskey, tequila and mezcal were the leading drivers of premiumization in the U.S.
Personally, I prefer mezcalâbecause of all those varietals, the flavors and styles of production are more complexâwhich is why Iâll be pouring one of these five mezcals this week for Cinco de Mayo. And Iâll tell you exactly how I like itâitâs the way they serve it in Mexico: Pour a little mezcal into a copita (or small cup) and pair it with orange slices dusted with sal de gusano (a mixture of ground-roasted larvae from the Hypopta agavis moth, chiles, and salt). Then take a little bite of the orange and a small sip of mezcal. Then, take a little taste of mezcal and bite into the orange.
By the third sip, you wonât care which way is betterâand your Cinco de Mayo will be off to a great start. Salud!
Best Mezcals To Enjoy This Cinco de Mayoâand Beyond
In my not-so-humble opinion, there are few celebrity-owned agave spirits worth spending your hard-earned wages on. And FĂłsforo, backed by Jim Cramer of Mad Money fame, is one of them. For now, there are two expressions: tobalĂĄ and tobalĂĄ penca, created by fourth-generation master mezcalero AarĂłn Alva SĂĄnchez in HuehuetlĂĄn el Grandeâa 90-minute drive from Puebla. The latter, an uncommon style, roasts piña for five to eight days before fermentation for up to two weeks. After being double-distilled, the distillate ages in glass vessels for up to three months amid roasted penca (agave leaves)âwhich imparts a deep but subtly sweet flavor. And while itâs delicious, itâs better for those who are deep into their mezcal love affair. The âregularâ tobalĂĄ expression, however, is a winner for any and all kinds of mezcal enthusiasts. It tastes of dark manuka honey and mildly overripe tropical fruitâcomplete with an understated funk. And while FĂłsforoâs website details several cocktail recipes, I highly recommended drinking this on its own: Itâs complex enough that its profile changes over the course of several sips. Or if you musy, have it with a sal de gusano-sprinkled navel orange wedge.
Fifth-generation head mezcalero Luis Enrique JuĂĄrez Ramirez certainly created a beauty with this one. Made in San AgustĂn Amatengo with wild barril agave harvested at 14 years old, the twice-distilled liquid is made the traditional wayâwith a few sanctioned modern processes typical of the âartesenalâ classification: The piña is cooked in a conical earthen oven and crushed using a tahona; the natural fermentation happens in ahuehuete wood barrels; and copper stills (in lieu of clay pots) are used for distillation. The result is a rich and complex mezcal that is at once vegetal and earthyâwith a prominent grassy, green taste that reveals itself after the first two sips or so. Drink a little more and youâll start to really notice its formidable smoke, which is reminiscent of a mild cigar, but without any sort of real funk. Personally, I love drinking this Paquera expression soloâor alongside a rich, saucy meal, which itâs able to âcutâ beautifully (think: birria or menudo or pozole rojo).
This is hands down one of the most approachable expressions in the market thatâs fit for novice and experienced mezcal drinkers alike. And at $47, itâs a good entry-level bottle for Siete Misterios, whose expressions are typically priced north of $130. Itâs as elegant and as citrus-forward as they comeâand itâs been a five oâclock mainstay in our household since I first tried it. So, if youâre the kind of imbiber who needs powerfully serious smoke, look the other wayâthis is not for you. Doba-Yej is the first mezcal in the Siete Misterios portfolio to be distilled in copper, versus the traditional clay pot stills used in their other expressions. And in case youâre not familiar with the labelâs modus operandi, each batch is made by a different mezcalero, so youâre bottle will likely come from one of these three places: Yautepec, Santiago MatatlĂĄn, or San Dionisioâall of which are in Oaxaca. But back to the actual liquid: Doba-Yej (which simply means espadĂn in Zapotec) is fruit-forward on the nose, with a grapefruit and lemon zest vibe that gives way to notes of roasted stone fruit like peaches and pear. There is a little bit of smokiness to it, but itâs oh-so-subtle. But take note, Doba-Yej is not to be confused with Siete Misterios EspadĂnâ which follows different production methods. Pro tip: I love drinking it neat with an orange wedge sprinkled with sal de gusano, but definitely try it in a simple mezcal and tonic with a small splash of agave syrup for a refreshing Tuesday afternoon tipple. (I recommend Thomas Henry cherry blossom tonic and Fentimans pink rhubarb tonic, or something less sweet of youâre so inclined.)
Mezcal AmarĂĄs Cupreata has always been among my top five favorites for daily drinking and cocktail-making. (It makes for a killer mezcalita.) But in terms of taste and versatility, the Logia Azul is up there as well. Made in Tlacolula, Oaxaca with eight-year-old Tequilana Weber blue agave (the same one used in tequila production), the 86-proof expression explodes with tropical fruit notes of pineapple, papaya, and mangoâfollowed by a citrus-forward bite toward the back of the palate. And while I love drinking it neat, the way God intended, it holds up well a cocktail base for a fabulously spicy drink, like a mezcal Bloody Maria. But try it on its own firstâif only to experience that gorgeous lingering finish.
Looking for the perfect bottle for all your mezcal cocktail needs? Or something to introduce a friend to the gloriousness of agave spirits? Then Del Magueyâs newest release, Vida Puebla, is for you. Thereâs a lot going on in the palate: Itâs fruity. Itâs floral. Itâs spicy. And itâs herbaceous. Itâs also relatively mild compared to most other mezcals. Because of these flavor profiles, Vida Puebla is remarkably versatileâa win for the home bartender. The 80-proof mezcal is made in Axocopan, Puebla in a palenque thatâs relatively modernâand itâs the successor to Vida ClĂĄsico, which is made in San Luis del Rio. And while both expressions are marketed to be used in a wide range of cocktails, the Vida Puebla shines in rich âdarkâ cocktails like the carajillo or a mezcal negroni because it provides just the right hit of oomph without being overpowering.