Since 2019, when Renzo Rosso’s OTB Group bought a minority stake in the LA-based menswear brand Amiri for an undisclosed sum, the brand has been on an upward growth trajectory. It’s partly due to Rosso’s experience, former Burberry SVP Adrian Ward-Rees joining the brand in 2023, and the designer Mike Amiri’s penchant for turning classic 1970s California design tropes into red-hot merch in the 2020s. Now, as the brand heads into its 11th year, among the news at the Spring 2026 Paris show is the expansion of women’s clothing.
For this outing, Amiri turned the Carreau du Temple, a former 19th-century glass and ironworks market turned event space, into a French-style garden complete with a functioning fountain to recall a hotel or resort, as Amiri said backstage. As inspiration was drawn from a friend and LA-based artist Wes Lang, who created a body of work at the infamous Chateau Marmont, that famous lodging, or even the Ritz Paris, seemed an apt inspiration for the set.
“It’s based on having loungewear and hotel pjs, things you usually wear around the house, but formalizing it a bit, wearing in a way that feels like a suit but not really. It’s taking ideas of traditional casual wear and mixing them into men’s tailoring,” he said backstage post show, in between posing for photos with his famous guestlist such as J. Balvin, Michael Cooper Jr., Russel Westbrook, Anderson Park, Becky G., Lucky Blue Smith, K-Pop sensation Sunwoo and Bronx-native rapper French Montana.
The collection was heavy on satin dressing and louche styles, a men’s smoking robe, for instance, with tasseled belting worn over loose-fit pants or a pajama top replacing a traditional men’s shirt, enhanced the layered looks.
One particular shirt style, in terracotta satin and a cream and black version, was reminiscent of the much-berated ruffle ‘prom’ shirt of the 1970s and 80s, but was made using feathers according to the designer and was totally chic.
The women’s looks centered on slinky gown styles, often crocheted or in satin and lace, or mimicked the ‘le smoking’ tailored attitude of the men’s style. It’s the second time that traditionally feminine styles shown on cisgender women have graced Amiri’s runway after adapting previous men’s styles to women’s silhouettes in the brand’s seasonal commercial offerings.
“Our womenswear is expanding every season and is currently the fastest growing category in the company. Incrementally, we’re getting there,” the designer confirmed. The collection also introduced a new women’s bag, the ‘Honey’ style in crocodile-embossed suede or supple leather in a relaxed, slouchy shape.
While growth in the women’s category is on the rise, one clothing category won’t be a focus for Amiri come Spring 2026, despite being the news on most runways in Paris, is men’s shorts, formal or otherwise.
When queried if he had an aversion to the mini pants, Amiri smiled. “I do shows with shorts, but I made a conscious decision this season not to do shorts or to put them in the show, but they could have easily fit in here, the whole style works with that. It’s talking about formalities in a way, and I think PJs are mostly long,” he offered. Indeed, and in Amiri’s hand, these chic, comfortable alternatives to tailored styles will be at home in Los Angeles, a Parisian garden, and anywhere in between.