Despite a slight slump in sales of luxury watches at retail and amid threats of tariffs on Swiss imports to the U.S., auction sales are humming along, with several high-value pieces and a few surprises coming up for auction in New York in early June. Highlights include a pocket watch owned by Al Capone at Sotheby’s, a Rolex Daytona with a racing pedigree at Phillips and a Patek Philippe from 1989 that was once the world’s most complicated watch, from Christie’s. The New York sales are slated for June 9 at Christie’s, June 10 at Sotheby’s and June 7-8 at Phillips.
Sotheby’s is putting the spotlight on a selection of rare Patek Philippe watches, including several minute repeaters that global head of watches Geoff Hess calls “the strongest group of trophy Pateks I have ever seen in a single sale.” They include Patek’s first combined world time/minute repeater, Ref. 5531R-012, (est. $550,000-$1.1 million); a double-signed (by Gübelin) ladies’ minute repeater Ref. 2424/1 (est. $1,250,000-$2,500,000); and a rare 1914 pocket watch repeater double-signed by Tiffany.
If you plan to attend the previews, Sotheby’s has created an intriguing immersive exhibition concept called The Repeater’s Studio around the Patek Philippe minute repeaters. Visitors get headphones to listen to the distinct chimes of each repeater, which together are transformed into a curated musical arrangement. Also at Sotheby’s, don’t miss the diamond and platinum Patek Philippe pocket watch once owned by gangster Al Capone. The case, custom made after it left Patek, is set with 90 diamonds that spell out his initials, “AC.” If this watch could talk, it would no doubt have a few stories to tell. ($80,000-$160,000).
Phillips is selling a Rolex Daytona Ref. 6265, known as a “Big Red” because of the red Daytona logo, once owned by French Formula One champion driver Jean-Pierre Jabouille. It is engraved with the ominous words “Die To Drive” (est. $50,000-$100,000). Another Phillips highlight is a yellow gold version of Patek Philippe’s most famous reference, the 1518. This one has been in the same collection for nearly 40 years and is estimated to sell for $400,000-$800,000. According to Phillips, “its owner kept it stored at all times in a humidity-protected vault, having never worn it since acquiring it at auction in 1989.” Hopefully it will be acquired by someone who will wear it.
The highlight of the Christie’s sale is also a Patek Philippe, this one a pink gold Ref. 3974R that was the world’s most complicated wristwatch when it was introduced in 1989 to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary. Of the 160 pieces produced, only around 20 were made in pink gold. Rebecca Ross, VP watches for Christie’s New York, calls it “one of the most important watches ever made in series by Patek Philippe, signifying rarity, complexity and achievement.” (est. $650,000-$1,350,000).
A rare treat from among notable independent watchmakers is also being offered at Christie’s: a Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30º Edition Historique. It was one of the early watches from the duo that pioneered the concept of the inclined tourbillon. Made circa 2020, it is considered unique among the 11 pieces made because of its platinum case, and bears the signature of both watchmakers Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. (est. $120,000-$220,000).