The skeletonization of a watch is a specialized technique requiring hours of chiseling and metal trimming by a skilled watchmaker to remove non-essential components of the movement. What remains is the “skeleton” of the movement, such as the intricate gears, bridges and other essential parts. The same person often adds decorative engravings or other embellishments. To view this detailed work of artisan craft, the dial is either significantly reduced or entirely removed.
French watch and clock maker, Andre-Charles Caron, who was the resident clockmaker to King Louis XV, is credited with crafting the first skeleton watch in 1760.
As already mentioned, skeletonization process is traditionally handcrafted. However, with advancements in computer-aided design and manufacturing (CAD-CAM) this technique can be replicated to produce skeletonized designs that would have been impossible to create by hand.
Even in the modern era of watchmaking, it is the unique pieces crafted by hand that are most valued by collectors. The best examples are often presented by the most prestigious brands and independent watchmakers. They are prized not only for for their artisan skill but the artistic representation of the movement. A skeletonized watch can be a thing of beauty.
The recently concluded Watches and Wonders horology fair saw many examples of skeletonized timepieces this year for men and women. Below are some of the best.
Armin Strom One Week Titanium Skeleton
What was already an openworked timepiece is now fully skeletonized to reveal all the mechanics. The small seconds dial is skeletonized, revealing the power reserve level and the escapement wheel. The mainplate and the barrels are also skeletonized. Because of this full skeletonization, the seven-day power reserve indicator is highlighted as well as the cone mechanism, “reminiscent of ancient pocket watches,” the brand said. A sapphire caseback provides a view of the entire Armin Strom Manufacture caliber ARM21-S, a manual-wound movement with a seven-day power reserve. The movement is housed in a 41mm case made of lightweight grade 5 titanium. The watch is limited to 100 pieces.
Bell & Ross BR-03 Skeleton
Bell & Ross, the brand that specializes in square aviation watches, introduced the BR-03 Skeleton at Watches & Wonders.
To reinforce the skeletonized concept, Bell & Ross redesigned the entire watch around a specific X-shaped structure and enhanced the luminescence.
The watch is powered by the new BR-CAL.328 caliber, an automatic three-hand movement without a date, with a 54-hour power reserve. The upper bridges form an X with four double arms, each connecting to one of the four bezel screws. The movement is designed by and produced for Bell & Ross. There are three distinct references of this new timepiece. They are:
The BR-03 Skeleton Black Ceramic, which has a 41mm black ceramic case constructed from smoked sapphire crystal. The dial has applied black “baignoire style” indexes filled with green-emitting white Super-LumiNova (SLN). The hour and minute hands are skeletonized and filled with green emitting white SLN, while the seconds hand is black with a white tip.
The BR-03 Skeleton Grey Steel with a 41mm satin-polished gray steel case. Everything on the watch is designed to reflect light, including the faceted indexes and the faceted ruthenium treated cut patterns on the open-worked dial. This model is limited to 250 pieces.
The BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic that features green luminescence on the edges of the openworked black dial. A green Super-LumiNova outline traces the cutouts of the dial, which is housed in a 41mm black ceramic case. This model is limited to 250 pieces.
Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray
Chanel made waves at Watches and Wonders by introducing an entire line of its well-known J12 watch collection in a distinctive blue ceramic. One of the pieces from the collection was further distinguished for a couple of reasons.
The J12 Bleu X-Ray features the skeletonized Caliber 3.1 Swiss-made manual winding movement with a 55-hour power reserve. The luxury brand chose colorless sapphire for the plate and the two bridges, which gives the appearance of floating gears. This impression is further enhanced by a bridge in a colorless sapphire, adorned with 12 baguette-cut bright blue natural sapphire indicators.
The skeletonized movement is really the secondary innovation of this watch. The first is that the case and bracelet are crafted from a block of blue tinted sapphire that took 1,600 hours of work to create, Chanel said. The links and bezel are made of white gold and set with 196 blue baguette-cut natural sapphires with the edges framed by black trim that creates a contrast with this endless sea of blue. The watch is numbered and limited to 12 pieces.
Charriol Navigator Caliber Skeleton 41mm
Charriol’s Navigator Caliber Skeleton 41mm is an extension of the 36mm version launched last year. Coralie Charriol, CEO and creative director of the brand founded by her father, Philippe Charriol, originally designed this for women when she introduced it in 2024. She says there is demand from men and women for a larger version of the timepiece.
Coralie worked with Swiss caliber manufacturer, Soprod, to produce the “Charriol Skeleton Caliber 41” automatic movement, created from the SOPROD M100 movement 11 ½. It details the hours, minutes, a sweeping seconds hand, and has personalized bridges and oscillating weight, and a 42-hour power reserve.
The dial features two brushed steel inner rings with a minute track with 12 super LumiNova index points and 12 faceted indexes in polished steel with a dark blue finish.
The dial and movement are housed in a 41mm steel case with a bezel engraved with a double Charriol lettering and decorated with 2 screws. It’s limited to 41 pieces.
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL
This watch marks the first time that IWC used its patented “SPRIN-g PROTECT” shock absorber system to protect the tourbillon in the watch against shocks. The cantilever spring was redesigned and adapted to accommodate the IWC in-house 82915 caliber with a flying minute tourbillon. To reduce the mass of the movement and maximize the system’s performance, the plates, bridges and the rotor are skeletonized, which provides a better view of the mechanics and the bulk metallic glass (BMG) shock absorber spring inside. It’s housed in IWC-proprietary Ceratanium case and crown. It is fitted with a black patterned rubber strap.
Norqain Wild One Skeleton 39mm
Norqain, launched in 2018, produces watches primarily for younger watch enthusiasts with active lifestyles. The watch brand is known for its skeleton watches. Among the new releases at Watches and Wonders 2025, are four Wild One timepieces, each with a unique and vibrant color and a smaller 39mm case size that can be worn by men and women. The color scheme for each watch is on the rubber shock absorbers, the crown guards, the inner bezel ring, and on the Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour markers. The rubber straps are in the same color as the rest of the watch. The colors are Hyper Pink, Mint, Ice Blue and Sky Blue. Sapphire crystal on the front and caseback provides a full view of the skeletonized caliber N086 automatic, skeletonized, COSC-certified chronometer movement.
Parmigiani Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green
Like all Parmigiani watches, this skeletonized timepiece is an elegant and refined thing of beauty. The green color is inspired by the architectural palette of Swiss-French architect and designer, Le Corbusier. The PF 777 automatic caliber has a total of 187 components, presented in a fine latticework with beveled finishes, and an openworked barrel, where the mainspring can be seen. The white gold oscillating weight bears the Parmigiani logo under a sapphire crystal disc on the caseback. The skeletonized movement is housed in a 40mm platinum case with a knurled bezel. Its thickness is 8.5mm. The watch is limited to 50 pieces.
Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR]
It’s impossible not to include the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] among the best skeleton watches released at Watches and Wonders even though I recently wrote about it in a story prior to the fair. The extreme skeletonization of the new UN-374 caliber was one of the techniques used to create the world’s lightest dive watch. The movement is made of lightweight and high strength titanium, and uses a triangle design structure that provides the integrity to withstand 200 meters of water resistance and an impact of 5,000 grams.