If you’ve had the pleasure of visiting Sardinia—the large Italian island in the Mediterranean that feels worlds away from the mainland—you’ve probably had porceddu. If not, it’s reason enough to book a flight (okay yes, and also for the kind of water that makes you thirsty just looking at it).
Porceddu is Sardinia’s beloved take on suckling pig—an age-old island delicacy. Traditionally, a whole young pig is slow-roasted over an open flame or in a generously sized oven, resulting in tender meat and crisp, crackling skin. While similar versions exist around the world, Sardinia’s spit-roasted porceddu is steeped in centuries of culinary tradition—and if you’re a BBQ enthusiast from the South like me, you’ll appreciate the art of this dish even more.
I feasted on my first porceddu at Zinnibiri, the open-air restaurant at Cala Cuncheddi—a stunning VRetreats Collection hotel just a few miles from Olbia. The restaurant sits in the hotel’s garden, offering dreamy views of the Mediterranean while you let time pass (read: disappear) over a long, delicious dinner.
“Porceddu is slow-cooked until the skin reaches a perfect golden crispness, creating a beautiful contrast with the tender meat inside,” says Pierluigi Putzu, executive chef at Zinnibiri. “We finish it by resting it on a bed of wild herbs—such as myrtle, rosemary, or juniper—which infuse the meat with distinctly Sardinian aromas giving it an unforgettable flavor. It’s a time-honored symbol of Sardinian tradition and flavor, and a dish that embodies our culinary heritage.”
After my first bite—through that crisp skin and into the juicy, tender center—I knew this was one of those dishes I’d think about forever.
This season, Putzu is leaning into local terroir with modern twists. “Two standout creations are fregola with seafood, basil foam, and a touch of lime (a vibrant, aromatic take on a Sardinian classic), and lorighittas with a rich local lobster sauce, which brings elegance and depth to a beloved regional pasta.” Personally, I can’t stop thinking about his pecorino sardo alla griglia con pere e miele—Sardinian pecorino grilled and served with pears and honey. It’s the perfect way to aperitivo alongside a glass of rosé in hand.
Putzu also follows a strict zero-kilometer policy. “We partner with small-scale, local producers who share our dedication to quality—from artisanal dairies and charcuteries to organic farms and trusted fishermen,” he says. “By sourcing everything locally—milk, cured meats, fruits, vegetables, and of course, freshly caught seafood—we’re not only reducing our environmental footprint, but also serving dishes that burst with genuine, regional flavor.”
As for Sardinian wines, Zinnibiri’s list highlights many of the island’s best producers. Thanks to the sunny climate and mineral-rich soil, Sardinian wines tend to be complex and expressive—think ripe fruit, wild herbs, a touch of spice, and of course, plenty of bright, coastal whites perfect for seafood. “I always recommend trying a crisp, mineral-forward Vermentino or a bold, earthy Cannonau,” says Putzu. “Both express the unique character of the island’s landscape and pair beautifully with our coastal cuisine.”
Even if you’re in a full porceddu-induced food coma, you have to make room for a mix of Sardinian sweets and seadas—cheese-and-honey pastries that straddle the line between savory and sweet—and wash it all down with Mirto, the island’s bittersweet myrtle liqueur that always appears post-dinner as a digestivo.
The best way to cap off a night at Zinnibiri? Check into Cala Cuncheddi, enjoy the talented piano man, sip a nightcap under the stars, and roll yourself to bed. You’ll want to relive it all again the next day.