On the cusp of her 39th birthday, British-Mexican designer Erika Alvarez stands at a crossroads of tradition and possibility. Born in the vibrant chaos of Mexico City and transformed by her 2012 journey to London for a Master’s in International Fashion Marketing, Alvarez’ brands KOUA Mexico and KOUA Studios embody her desire to preserve her culture while pushing the envelope on fashion.
Looking at her career, travel back to her homeland was a root of her inspiration. In fact, her pilgrimage back to Mexico after completing her studies wasn’t merely a homecoming, but a calling to immerse herself in indigenous communities. Here, she lived alongside artisans in San Cristobal de las Casas, who are historically producers of textiles, and absorbed their wisdom and developed pieces together. Raised in a lineage of strong women, her mandate is to empower others of her gender and to create economic opportunities that honored ancestral knowledge.
“My first venture, KOUA Studio, was all related to textiles,” Alvarez said in an interview with Forbes. “Sometimes the work of indigenous communities gets culturally appropriated and it is my mission to provide economic opportunities to artisans, especially women, and to make it known that the intellectual property belongs to these communities.”
Legal Protections Provide Mexican Artisans A Standing To Protect Their Work
This principle forms the cornerstone of her philosophy: she is not the creator but the channel to amplify indigenous voices and artistic traditions to audiences who might otherwise never encounter them. Plus, the law supports her. Mexico has become the first country to set a legal limit by passing The Federal Law for the Protection of the Cultural Heritage of Indigenous and Afro-Mexican People and Communities (entered into force on January 18, 2022) that protects the collective right of ownership. Further, it was reported earlier this month that artisans from Mexico and Peru have begun an unprecedented exchange of techniques, knowledge, and strategies under UNESCO’s guidance. This Binational Textile Art Meeting stands as testament to how cultural preservation can drive sustainable development and economic transformation.
Moving away from Mexico and London, Alvarez aspires to settle in Paris to introduce her brands KOUA Mexico and KOUA Studios to European and eventually international markets. She enters this sphere with historical context; Europe has long been captivated by Mexican aesthetics, from Christian Dior’s 1947 “Mexico” dress to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s 2023 Dior showcase in Mexico City, where butterfly motifs adorned couture embroidery alongside traditional huipils and gabans.
“I’m here in Paris and hoping to settle here to raise the profile of Mexican artistry and to connect to other fashion experts who love the culture as much as I do. Plus, I know people here understand the business behind fashion and envision the future of fashion to include handmade products, decreased mass production, slowdown of fast fashion and overconsumption,” she added.
Alvarez’s Exhibition at Paris Fashion Week Honors Staples of Mexican Gastronomy
During Paris Fashion Week earlier this week, Alvarez presented an exhibition that fused gastronomy and couture. KOUA Mexico unveiled “Our Sacred Harvest”, a sensory manifesto that celebrated Mexico’s rich textile heritage and indigenous craftsmanship. Inspired by her family who comes from a local town in Guerrero, one of the poorest and most affected states in Mexico, this exhibition is also about respect for her ancestors and traditions. Along the historic Rue de Richelieu, the showcase created a dialogue between ancestral traditions and contemporary design fueled by KOUA’s Acapulco handbag collection. This collection prioritizes vegan leather made from pineapple, recycled cotton, naturally dyed fabrics and handcrafted designs by artisans from Oaxaca and Guerrero.
“The fusion of food and fashion sends a powerful message because our textiles, like our food, are foundational to our identity and heritage, serving as nourishment for our society—particularly in our local communities, where corn serves as the cornerstone of an entire culture, much like in Meso-american civilizations,” Alvarez explained.
Alvarez collaborated with Daniel Robles Cruz, the acclaimed Oaxaca-born photographer and Louis Vuitton Foundation Award recipient whose imagery portrayed the sacred corn and agave harvests that played a deep influence in her pieces. Guests were treated to signature mezcal cocktails from Milpan, a contemporary restaurant by Chef Mauricio López, to also get a taste of the gastronomy world of Mexico. Beyond the fashion and flavor, “Our Sacred Harvest” inspired an important conversation about ethical representation in fashion and art.
“It is crucial to engage in dialogue with our communities when creating art, rather than merely commercializing their culture,” Álvarez added. “This is not just about fashion; it extends to food, cinema, and beyond. True recognition means ensuring fair representation and inclusion.”