Chef Devan Rajkumar grew up with a globe of influence. His ancestors are from Southern Asia and his parents were raised in Guyana, the descendants of Indians transported to the Caribbean as indentured servants. He grew up in Toronto, a city filled with immigrants and citizens from across the globe. His job as a chef takes him to Scotland, Turks and Caicos and beyond to cook,
So when the award-winning chef went to make his first cookbook, Mad Love (Figure 1 Publishing 2024), it didn’t make sense to pull inspiration from one culture —he, like his own food, was seasoned by many.
As such, his cookbook flirts through the diaspora that formed his own experiences. His nachos? Call for a base of Desi-spiced cauliflowers. His steak is tandoori-spiced but topped with a bright red chimichurri. Spanakopita is stuffed with palak paneer. Other recipes honor his heritage more strictly: his mother’s dhal, traditional Jamaican patties, and lamb vindaloo.
Here’s what you need to know about his new book.
For as long as I’ve been cooking—sixteen years now—I have wanted to write a cookbook. I believe I have a unique lens on cooking, both culturally and growing up in the city of Toronto. This book is a means for me to share my expertise, document recipes, inspire others and continue to build my brand. It was an opportunity to leave a lasting culinary legacy not only for myself, but my late brother Jai, my parents and my community.
I was raised in a Caribbean and East-West Indian environment. I feel my culture is underrepresented and I want to be someone who uses my expertise and platform to preserve our culture and be an advocate for future generations.
Cookbooks are educational tools—they offer insights into ingredients, cooking methods, and cultural contexts. They help raise awareness about culinary traditions and promote a deeper understanding and appreciation of the diversity of the Caribbean.
And as interest in global cuisines continues to grow, Guyanese and West Indian cookbooks can inspire culinary tourism by highlighting the flavors and dishes of the Caribbean. It provides opportunities for representation, recognition, and economic empowerment within the food industry.
Toronto is one of the most multicultural cities in the world, with residents from virtually every corner of the globe. The access I had to authentic ethnic cuisines was mind boggling. It exposed me to a wide variety of cuisines, flavors, and culinary traditions from around the world. It fostered my appreciation for different foods and techniques from an early age.
My brother, Jai, also had a profound impact on my career. Growing up, he’d take me for bowls of Pho, massive spreads of Dim Sum, regional Italian, Indian buffets, and Middle Eastern feasts.
You will never truly know how happy that makes me! To inspire others was a big motivation for me to write this book. To put a smile on someone elses face and nourish their soul if only for a second is one of my goals in life.
Start with my mother’s dhal recipe. It’s been in my family for years, and it’s a great introduction to Guyanese food (plus it’s gluten free, vegan, dairy free and very satiating).
Or, try the Bombay tomato chicken parm. I love that dish because chicken parm is one of the most satisfying and soul satiating dishes I know and it always made me feel right at home with the south Asian spin on the tomato sauce. After that, get cracking on fermenting some hot peppers! Ferment them for at least a month to build as much character and depth in that pepper mash as possible before blending them into the best hot sauce you’ve ever made.
This is a tough one! Definitely the palak paneer spanakopita. Palak paneer is one of my all time favorite Indian curries made with spinach, paneer and a balanced blend of spices. Spanakopita, with crispy butter phyllo and the seasoned spinach, feta, dill and garlic mixture, is another favorite. It made perfect sense to combine the two and it’s now one of the fusion dishes I am most proud of.
Another showstopper is the smoked goat biryani. Sure, it has the biggest ingredient list and requires the most technical skills. But few things are as exciting as pulling the crispy dough that seals in all the aromatic steam to reveal the perfectly cooked multicolored layers of rice, meat, fried onions, and herbs. It’s definitely a recipe you want to make when you want to impress a crowd!
I am obsessed with music and its such a big part of my life—I couldn’t imagine prepping or executing an event without music! When I discovered that including QR codes/playlists was an option I knew I had to make it happen.
Sharing playlists allow me to connect with readers on a more intimate level and deepen their connection to the book. Listening to music while reading and cooking will set the mood, enhance the atmosphere and experience. They may explore the music, discover new artists and songs that resonate with them. And the impact my brother had on me musically I could never do justice by explaining it here with these words. A good chunk of that music is songs and artists he introduced me to and I fell in love with.
I love cooking with chaat masala, flaky salt, hot sauce, unsalted butter, and curry leaves. From the cookbook? Start with ginger-garlic paste, paneer, garlic confit, green seasoning, and citrus vinaigrette. These are all foundational recipes that build a base for flavor.