Made famous by the painter John Constable, and more recently, by singer-songwriter, Ed Sheeran, Suffolk’s rural landscapes and quintessential British seaside resorts make for an alluring destination for those seeking a holiday in the UK.
The unassuming county, bordering Norfolk to the north, Essex to the south and Cambridgeshire to the west, is often overlooked in favour of coastal hotspots, such as Devon or Cornwall, or the manicured countryside charm of the Cotswolds. But this is all part of its attraction: despite Suffolk being within easy reach of London and the Midlands, as you traverse the idyllic country lanes, and pass by medieval churches, it feels like you have stumbled across a well-kept secret part of the UK that not many have discovered yet.
Of course, this is not exactly the case. Constable first put Suffolk on the map with his bucolic paintings, the most famous being The Hay Wain, which was completed in 1821 and depicts the River Stour in Flatford, with travellers visiting the scene—which remains largely unchanged—ever since. Sheeran’s Castle on the Hill, meanwhile, also put the destination in the spotlight, with the song creating an uptick in 15% more visitors the year after it was released. It has been described as a ‘love letter to Suffolk’ and references Framlingham Castle close to where the singer grew up.
Suffolk’s largest resort town is Southwold, which boasts a traditional pier and a brewery and gin distillery by Adnams, the 650-year-old, Suffolk-based brewer (you can book tours and gin-making activities). The town also boasts a boutique-style hotel, The Swan, owned by the brewery, and which was once a historic coaching inn, dating back to 1659.
From the RSPB Reserve at Minsmere—where you will spot avocets, bearded tits and bitterns, and if you’re lucky, an otter hiding out in the reedbed pools—to the medieval, crooked timbered houses in Lavenham—part of the appeal of Suffolk is its sheer diversity.
Celebrating all of this is the homestay company By Quince, which has a portfolio of individually designed, British holiday homes dotted across Suffolk (as well as in Kent and in the Cotswolds). Founded by Sarah and Peter Wood, the duo have injected an element of joyful design into period houses and turned them into holiday rentals with a difference. The signature aesthetic of the properties includes a mix-match of bright colours, seen in statement wallpapers and pretty textiles, antiques and vintage furniture, as well as the latest modern conveniences such as Nespresso coffee makers, high-end crockery, laundry washer-dryers and well-stocked kitchens.
Found in the seaside town of Aldeburgh, Moorings is one of the brand’s flagship properties and, with five bedrooms (sleeping 10-11 guests), it is ideal for a gathering of friends or an extended-family holiday. The rambling, Edwardian property is found just a five-minute walk from the town’s pretty, shingle beaches and in reach of the thriving high street.
“Moorings has the feel of a traditional Edwardian family home and guests love this charm,” Sarah Wood tells me. “The garden is pretty and south-facing with a beautiful old magnolia tree to give it some shade. Here, guests will also find our signature outdoor tin bath, with hot and cold running water, for a soak under the stars. Inside the home, it has spacious sunny rooms and high ceilings. It is on a quiet private road yet found so close to the beach and high street.”
Moorings’ open-plan living space on the ground floor includes a contemporary sky-blue and burnt-orange kitchen and a dining area, with a traditional dresser and scrubbed kitchen table. Original features have been retained throughout, such as sash windows and restored oak doors. An adjoining living room offers a cosy space to kick off your shoes and relax, with a window seat and velvet sofas and chairs (there’s enough room for everyone to gather). A fireplace, with electric log burner, is the perfect setting for evenings of board games or movie nights all together. Meanwhile, in addition to a family bathroom, three of the bedrooms have en suites, with each room decorated in an eclectic, individual style—think: baby-pink subway tiles and palm-print wallpaper in one; another embraces green hues with a bold graphic print wallpaper, French-style padded headboard and red candy-striped blinds at the windows. Pops of colour throughout, says Sarah, is an easy way to inject joy into every room.
Throughout the house, there are quirky and interesting touches that elevate it from a bog-standard holiday rental to one that oozes character: from the renovated cinema chairs in the hallway to the framed 1950s red and white dotted swimsuit; vintage art posters to jewel-coloured chairs.
I spoke to Sarah Wood to find out more about how Quince is working to put lesser-known destinations on the map for holidaymakers.
“Quince differs from other holiday companies because we own our collection of holiday houses. As such we have created the portfolio not curated it (as happens with most holiday cottage agencies). This makes us truly unique with an identifiable quality standard giving guests peace of mind when booking. On arrival, we want guests to have an element of surprise and a sense of fun discovery when it comes to both the home and the location.”
She continues: “All our beds are of the same very high quality and British made. All the furnishings are new or upcycled, but with design and style in mind. There is original artwork throughout the properties and each has an exterior bath house in the garden. Each kitchen is well fitted, as if it was an actual working home, making it practical to use—this is really important for a homestay. I design everything with lookbooks and use local suppliers. I’m always thinking about comfort and sumptuousness and try to reference the local area. Finally, we are very hands-on with our guests, we engage early and in-depth and we are there to help but not interfere on their precious downtime.”
Sarah continues: “When we look for our properties, we look at the location first and foremost—we are only interested in desirable British destinations, and often not the most obvious places. The houses need to each have their own individual story and personality. We work hard on the names of the houses, giving them a sense of place and an individuality. We want a position in a popular location with easy access to great holiday spots, but quiet enough for guests to get off the grid and relax. We like good size houses as they add flexibility working both for groups of friends and families.”
A stay at Moorings puts you in the heart of Aldeburgh. One of its big drawers is the number of local food suppliers and artisan producers found on the high street and along the beach—from delis to traditional butchers; bakers to tea houses. On arrival at Moorings, guests will also find a welcome basket of goodies sourced from the area as a mini introduction to the foodie delights found on the doorstep. For fresh fish, the beach is dotted with huts selling the catch of the day, oysters and smoked fish, straight off the boats (for the best produce, go early). The town is also home to some of the best fish and chip shops in the UK, as well as the new The Suffolk, opened by George Pell, director of London’s famous L’Escargot restaurant.
The town also straddles nature reserves, which you can explore accompanied by swifts and swallows swooping across its skies. While, local artist Maggi Hambling’s Scallop sculpture will add a touch of drama to an early morning stroll along the shoreline. The 4m-high, stainless steel piece was created to celebrate the composer Benjamin Britten who lived in Aldeburgh, and makes for a stunning artwork with the sea as its backdrop.
“Aldeburgh is a quintessential English seaside town,” agrees Sarah. “There are great restaurants and cafés, such as Two Magpies Bakery, traditional local butchers and you can buy fish from boats on the beach. It still has a fantastic high street with lots of individual boutiques for shopping. For those wanting to explore, you can book a boat ride to sail along the coast or find walking or cycling trails inland, such as the Sailor’s Path. In May, there is also a Suffolk Walking Festival, which celebrates Suffolk’s natural landscapes and heritage with guided walks to every corner of the county. The festival is a great way to discover parts of Suffolk you perhaps never knew existed and also learn about the county’s fascinating history.”
Revealing some of her insider recommendations, Sarah says: “Aldeburgh has been built around the sea and was a fishing village before it was a holiday hotspot. So we would always recommend eating out at one of the good fish restaurants or going to buy fresh fish from the beach huts. The area is renowned for its food and particularly for its oysters and a trip to The Butley Oysterage in Orford is definitely worth a visit. Alternatively, you can taste some wonderful shellfish from local supplier Pinney’s.”
“The town was home to the composer Benjamin Britten, so a visit to The Red House, his old home turned musuem, is a great immersion into the area, or visit the Opera House at Snape Maltings. This has turned into a destination in its own right, with shops, delis and a concert hall, with a rich programme of events. You can walk there from Aldeburgh along the Sailors Path, across marshes and heathland to Snape, and this will give you a real flavour of this beautiful marshland area. Wider afield in Suffolk, the countryside is rural and very unspoilt. I would definitely recommend a visit to Framlingham Castle (made famous by Ed Sheeran’s song, as he was brought up there). I would also recommend Helmingham Hall, a privately-owned moated manor house with stunning gardens, as it shows the wealth and history of the area. Sutton Hoo is also worth a side-trip and is the location of an amazing intact Viking Ship and the treasures shown in the film The Dig. It really brings to life how instrumental the Vikings were in shaping eastern England. Finally, this part of Suffolk is where a lot of advances in radar and communications were made, so a visit to the Radar Museum at Bawdsey will show a completely different side to this beautiful county.”