Vacheron Constantin unveiled three new interpretations of its Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin collection, now presented in a refined 36.5mm by 8.43mm case. The models are available in 18k 5N pink gold, 18k white gold and 18k white gold with diamond-set bezel and lugs.
All three timepieces are powered by the in-house caliber 1120 QP, an ultra-thin automatic movement that incorporates a perpetual calendar within its 4.05mm profile. Comprising 276 components and 36 jewels, the movement displays the day, date, month and a 48-month indicator with leap-year function, along with a moon-phase and age-of-the-moon complication—plus hours and minutes.
True to Vacheron Constantin’s high watchmaking tradition, the movement is meticulously hand-finished. The hidden mainplate is circular-grained, while the sapphire caseback reveals Côtes de Genève striping and hand-bevelled bridges, circular satin-finished sinks and polished gear-train teeth. The openworked oscillating weight, crafted with a 22k gold outer segment, takes the shape of the brand’s Maltese cross emblem and is also decorated with Côtes de Genève.
The compact case frames a dial designed for clarity and balance, featuring a silver-toned opaline finish. The month, date and day are indicated via hands on subdials positioned at 12, 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively, while the combined moon-phase and age-of-the-moon display sits at 6 o’clock.
The pink gold model features faceted Dauphine hands and baton hour markers in matching 18k 5N gold, paired with a dark blue moon-phase display and a tone-on-tone dark blue alligator strap.
The white gold version contrasts its case with hands and hour markers in 18k 5N pink gold, complemented by a lighter blue moon-phase display and a new light brown alligator strap.
The diamond-set white gold model adopts a restrained, monochromatic palette with hands and markers in white gold and 76 grain-set diamonds on the bezel, lugs and crown. A dark blue moon-phase disc and matching alligator strap complete the design.
The perpetual calendar is deeply anchored in the history of the watchmaker. The first example made by Vacheron Constantin was an 1884 perpetual calendar observatory watch now held in the watch brand’s private collection. The perpetual calendar must automatically adjust to consider the anomalies of the Gregorian calendar, including leap years as well as months of different lengths, with no need for manual correction until 2100.
The new watch models were inspired by the dimensions of the Vacheron Constantin Ref. 43031, created in 1983. When it was launched at the peak of the “quartz crisis” – a time of waning interest in mechanical Swiss watchmaking – Ref. 43031 put high watchmaking back on the map and was widely regarded as its “quintessential perpetual calendar” for the two decades that it was in production, Vacheron Constantin said in a statement.
Sandrine Donguy, Vacheron Constantin’s product and innovation director, noted that the new 36.5mm diameter is only 0.5mm larger than the case of the Reference 43031.
“Aside from its elegance and ergonomic comfort, the aesthetics of that watch also demonstrated how the complex indications of a perpetual calendar can be displayed on a small dial with no loss of elegance and legibility,” she said.
Donguy added that the brand has never pursued ultra-thin records for their own sake.
“Our approach to ultra-thin watchmaking has always been to balance the design and materials technology of the day with the beauty and values of 18th-century Genevan haute horlogerie that remain at the core of our identity.”