The fashion world is in mourning after learning of the death of Irish-American fashion designer Paul Costelloe, aged 80. His official Instagram account announced on Saturday afternoon that he had passed away in London, surrounded by his wife and seven children. A further statement read, “We are deeply saddened to announce the passing of Paul Costelloe following a short illness. He was surrounded by his wife and seven children and passed peacefully in London. We kindly ask that you respect the privacy of the family during this time.”
Paul Costelloe leaves behind a strong legacy. One of London’s most influential designers, he was based in the British capital and had been part of London Fashion Week for over 40 years, always presenting the opening show on the Friday. He was first invited to be part of the event in 1984, at the then-venue London Olympia, and was allocated the 9 am on Friday slot. He once told me, in jest, that this was far too early and that he would have preferred a later start.
Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of attending his shows and interviewing him. On one occasion, when I asked him to describe his style, he told me it was simply “modern chic”. Indeed, Paul Costelloe will always be remembered for his classic, elegant style as well, of course, for being appointed personal designer to Diana, Princess of Wales, in 1983, a position he held until her sad death in 1997.
His Spring/Summer 2025 presentation, titled Le ciel est bleu (The sky is blue), was a tribute to Paris, a city he loved. After the show, we spoke backstage at the Waldorf Hotel, and he told me that it was in the French capital where, during the late ‘60s and early ‘70s, he gained his initial experience in fashion and that he retained that French couture feel throughout his career. His eponymous label was founded in 1978, but his fashion career began at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris. He became Jacques Esterel’s design assistant (Esterel became prominent after creating Brigitte Bardot’s iconic gingham wedding dress in 1959), before moving to Milan and later to New York. There, Costelloe established his label, Paul Costelloe Collections and selected his logo: a running fox. When I asked him why he chose the fox, he explained that when he was living in New York and was looking for a brand identity, he went to an old print house on 57th Street, where he saw a picture of a fox, and “that was it”. He explained that the choice was influenced by the fact that he came from a family in Dublin where everybody hunted. “That fox is now over thirty years old and has survived, like the foxes in London,” he said.
His final show, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection, was praised for its timeless appeal and fun, youthful subtext. Titled “Boulevard of Dreams,” the presentation was inspired by Hollywood’s Sharon Tate and evoked the spirit of California during the late 1960s. It featured platform shoes, purposefully messy beehive hairstyles, and outfits in soft pastel shades (yellow, pink, orange, and blue). Speaking to him backstage after the show, he told me that this collection aimed to project “positive vibes—Valley of the Dolls, California, Rodeo Drive—very Americana”, because of his American heritage.
Paul Costelloe’s successful brand, which continues to thrive today, offers womenswear, menswear, bags, homeware, eyewear, children’s occasion wear, and corporate clothing. In 1992, for example, he designed the uniform for Britain’s flagship airline, British Airways. It was to be the longest-serving uniform in the airline’s history, was officially decommissioned only in 2004, and was still used on many BA flights up to 2008.
Costelloe was also a family man. “Family keeps you grounded. You don’t get too confident in anything, you allocate your time hopefully fairly, and you’re kind of….proud,” he told me with a smile. His work combined refinement and sophistication effortlessly, and despite achieving great success, he remained unassuming and very approachable. As he once said to me, “London was very much of a sixties look, but Paris retained that more couture style, which has remained with me, that kind of always good taste, it’s a bit boring, but…so what?”