The Big Island may be Hawaii’s most mysterious. The terrain of the island of Hawaii ranges from dramatic beaches to dry lava moonscapes to lush jungle to fiery new land created by the erupting volcano of Kilauea.
Hawaii is home to 11 of the 13 climate zones found on Earth. This includes alpine conditions atop Hawaii’s highest mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, each more than 13,600 feet above sea level. Mauna Loa, the largest active volcano on earth, makes up about half of the island. Hawaii also features both white and black sandy beaches.
There’s a lot to see on the Big Island, from the ever-erupting volcano to the Place of Refuge. But once you arrive, you might not want to leave the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai.
The beautiful and welcoming Four Seasons is just fifteen minutes north of the Kona airport, but its staff make it a world away from the frustrations of travel.
For example, when we arrived we went for an Aperitivo Happy Hour by the sea at the Beach Tree Bar and Lounge, it suddenly started to rain. The staff deftly moved us from a wet table to a spot by the bar under a canopy.
We remained dry as we sampled the amazing bruschetta, with local bread and big pieces of tomato, washed down with a Captain Ed’s Mai Tai and a Negroncello. It’s a Hualalai twist on a Negroni, using Limoncello as a flavor forward part of the drink.
The Four Seasons Hualalai this year celebrating its 30th anniversary, is a relaxing property with impeccable service. It is tropical yet refined, like its sister property on Maui, the site of Season One of The White Lotus.
During our stay, each member of the Four Seasons staff lived up to their Golden Rule promise, helping make us feel like both family and welcomed guests.
The resort takes full advantage of its magnificent setting on 865 acres. The hotel has 249 rooms, with196 guest rooms and 53 suites. The property, which also includes the Hualalai Golf Course, was purchased by Michael Dell in 2006.
As a resort destination, the hotel includes a wide array of activities for all ages and interests, especially those traveling with multigenerational families. Aside from the two golf courses, pools and ocean swimming, tennis and pickleball courts, the hotel has a state-of-the-art fitness facility covering 15,000 square feet designed by celebrity trainer Harley Pasternak. There are indoor and “open-air” strength and sports decks. It’s also the site of a four-lane, 25-meter outdoor lap pool for swimmers.
The Hualālai Spa is a 28,000-square-foot facility integrating tropical gardens with interior spaces. The spa has 19 indoor/outdoor treatment rooms. There are gardens and lounges, saunas, steam rooms, and cold plunge pools. The spa offers a wide range of treatments, including over 50 varieties of massage, such as the fantastic deep Lomi Lomi massage I experienced.
The Four Seasons has a scenic walking trail along the beach that connects the hotel with its outdoor activities center. The water activities include outrigger canoes and snorkeling, both of which we tried.
Each started on the beach in a protected bay, with calm, warm water. The outrigger canoe came with a great guide who told us more about the Big Island as we paddled for an hour, watching for waves and sea turtles.
For snorkeling, the Four Seasons thoughtfully created a water walkway to make it easy to enter through the waves. The water was so clear I spotted a green sea turtle the size of a Volkswagen tire and swam with it for fifteen minutes. Tropical triggerfish and other colorful creatures swam around the coral.
In addition to a warm ocean, the hotel has eight pools, from kids-only spaces to sanctuaries just for adults. Rooms and suites overlook the pools and beach areas, providing great views.
The Hualalai Four Seasons has many marine and cultural activities. The King’s Pond and Kumu Kai Marine Center provides both. Hualalai’s 1.8-million-gallon “aquarium” is carved out of natural lava rock and stocked with more than 1,000 tropical fish. The King’s Pond marine life can be viewed from the pool’s edge or by venturing into the water, with or without snorkel gear. We particularly enjoyed seeing the lonely eagle ray, beautiful with its flapping wings and polka dots.
Pondside, there are aquariums to view local fish up close, and a marine specialist who can fill you in on local marine life. Hundreds of guests and students from the island take part in these activities yearly. Sometimes kids are even allowed to fish for tilapia, an invasive species, in the pond.
Sustainability efforts include aquaculture that literally takes oysters “from golf course to table.” One of the golf courses has a water feature which doubles as an oyster pond. It contains 60,000 oysters who eventually end up at the hotel’s Ulu and Noio restaurants. The hotel can also plan a custom pond-side oyster experience, one of many Only at Hualalai Experiences available.
Perhaps our most memorable meal at the Four Seasons was the Omakase Experience at NOIO, sharing the sushi bar with two other couples. Sushi Chef Nuri Piccio thrilled us with multiple courses, each with unique flavors and presentation.
The menu changes depending on availability, as much of it is based on locally caught fish. While it’s hard to resist the A5 wagyu beef, other favorite courses were the miso soup with large portions of fish and crab, as well as the perfectly cut salmon and tuna sushi. The flavorful ice cream and shaved ice for dessert was quite a palate cleanser. Chef Piccio also offers a sushi-making class to guests at the resort, another of Four Seasons’ experiences.
At Ulu, breakfast is offered as either buffet or off the full menu. The buffet is well stocked to suit any cravings, including hot items ranging from waffles, eggs and breakfast meats to Asian dumplings and delicacies. For those interested in simpler fare there are also cereals, yogurt and salad fixings. If you prefer table service, try the egg white frittata and the amazing lemon ricotta pancakes.
Later at dinner we enjoyed charred avocado and tuna poke prepared tableside with spices, served with crispy taro chips. And the main course, New York filet, was tender and delicious. The bread was served with sweet “Ulu butter” from a nearby farm. In fact, 75% of the food on the menu at Ulu is local. A freshly made souffle was dessert.
Almost half of the diners at the Four Seasons Hualalai are local residents, drawn by the excellence of the restaurants. This is common at Four Seasons properties, as the hotel group has earned over 30 Michelin stars for its restaurants at properties around the world. For example, the Auro restaurant at Four Seasons Napa Valley, open just three years, has already picked up a pair of Michelin stars.
Unfortunately, the Michelin organization does not yet rate Hawaiian restaurants, but Four Seasons Resort Hualalai has been awarded two Michelin keys. With five restaurants at Hualalai and the average stay typically 5 nights, guests can sample a different restaurant each evening.
ULU, Miller & Lux Hualalai and Beach Tree were recognized with an Award of Excellence by Wine Spectator in the 2025 Restaurant Awards. Miller & Lux, the brainchild of Chef Tyler Florence, a haven for steak and traditional fare, will reopen later this fall after renovations.
The interior of the hotel is as beautiful as the exterior. The rooms and suites are decorated in calming island style. The view from the balcony was beautiful and we enjoyed relaxing, dining and reading throughout the day, especially the spectacular evening sunsets.
The large king bed was extremely comfortable. The standard guest room gave us plenty of space to spread out to work at the desk or relax on the sofa to watch TV. The bathroom was well-appointed and included a rainforest shower and soaking tub, as well as premium personal products.
The Four Seasons Hualalai is a fabulous place to spend the upcoming Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s holidays, or to get away from winter.
Many families have been coming to the resort for thirty years. It was our first visit, but after experiencing the grace and relaxation of Hualalai, hopefully it will not be our last.