Fancy colored diamonds and important gemstones led Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale in Geneva, though the event’s anticipated star never made it to the block. The Glowing Rose—a 10.08-carat cushion-shaped brilliant-cut fancy vivid pink diamond estimated at about $20 million—was withdrawn prior to the sale.
The Glowing Rose was the second major pink diamond withdrawn from Geneva’s November jewelry sales. On November 10, Phillips pulled a 6.95-carat fancy vivid purplish-pink diamond ring estimated at about $9 million—also slated as that auction’s top lot.
The new top lot of the Sotheby’s sale held Wednesday at the Mandarin Oriental was a 4.50-carat internally flawless oval mixed-cut fancy vivid blue diamond that achieved more than $5.9 million.
The second-highest price went to a pair of earrings by German high jewelry house Schreiner, set with cushion modified brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamonds weighing 38.66 and 38.88 carats, suspended from rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamonds of 2.00 and 2.03 carats. Accented with brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow tint, the earrings realized more than $3.3 million.
Among colored gemstones, the top lot was a ring centered with a 12.78-carat unheated cushion-shaped Burmese ruby with triangular diamond shoulders. The gem report noted a minor amount of orange oil in fissures. The piece sold for more than $1.3 million.
A Van Cleef & Arpels ring and pendant combination, circa 1978, centered with a 7.69-carat unheated cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire of the highly prized “royal blue” hue and framed by pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, fetched more than $1.1 million.
An 11.19-carat pear-shaped light blue diamond with VS1 clarity also exceeded expectations, selling for more than $1 million—well above its high estimate.
Another standout from Van Cleef & Arpels was the “Gazelle” necklace, circa 1977. The front of the necklace features a 5.20-carat oval ruby surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds, leading to a graduated series of oval rubies between diamonds and suspending three detachable ruby pendants weighing 3.56, 3.39 and 2.79 carats. It achieved more than $1 million.
Schreiner also appeared among the top lots with its “Rondelle” necklace, an adjustable slide design showcasing a 42.89-carat cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond (VS1). It’s attached to a chain of rondelles suspending two ovoid pendants set with brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow and black tint. The necklace sold for just over $1 million.
The sale included nearly 40 pieces from “Aria of Jewels: The Collection of a Distinguished Lady,” featuring rare and unique creations by Cartier as well as important pieces from Sabadini and De Grisogono. The collection belonged to Antje-Katrin Kühnemann (1945–2025), German television’s first on-screen doctor, celebrated for revolutionizing public understanding of medicine and well-being. The group realized a total of $15.5 million.
Two Cartier jewels from the Kühnemann collection inspired intense bidding among phone, online and room participants. The first was a unique platinum bangle centered with a cluster of various-shaped rose-cut diamonds of yellow tint, accented by polished onyx lines. The cluster stones ranged from 1.71 to 1.01 carats, graded fancy light yellow to fancy vivid yellow, with VVS1 to I1 clarity. It sold for $709,803—three times its high estimate.
The second was a unique Cartier “Éclat” platinum and diamond necklace, an articulated three-row fringe set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds and suspending a detachable asymmetric pendant. It sold for $354,902, more than double its high estimate.