On the west coast of the Isle of Lewis, the Calanais Standing Stones sit on a windswept promontory, overlooking the magical Loch Roag. Dating back some 5,000 years, and predating Stonehenge, the stones, standing in a cross formation, are one of the great tourist draws of this island, that sits on the same land mass as the Isle of Harris, part of Scotland’s Outer Hebrides.
But that’s not its only attraction. On Braighe Beach, close to Stornoway airport, a giant tumble of seaweed has amassed across the sand, gripping the rocks in a far corner. From a distance, the fronds’ shades of gold, burnt sienna and bottle green, make it look like autumnal leaves have strangely settled on the shoreline. Seaweed may be a common sight around the island, largely ignored by most, but it turns out it is a sought-after ingredient for eco-conscious beauty brands, including the Hebridean-born Ishga.
Co-founder and marine biologist, Malcolm Macrae, is, in his words, an unlikely beauty entrepreneur, and Ishga—a Gaelic word meaning ‘water’—was, he says, born almost by accident.
After leaving the Isle of Lewis to study at the University of Glasgow, Malcolm started his career in pharmaceuticals. “I didn’t know the first thing about beauty, creams, oils and the like,” he laughs.
After moving on to a job involving water testing in 2013, he became re-acquainted with old school friend, Martin Macleod, who had been working at a seaweed factory. After the pair got talking, they began thinking about entrepreneurial opportunities surrounding seaweed and organic product from their home island. They both knew how naturally rich seaweed was in minerals, vitamins, and antioxidants and, alongside Malcolm’s wife Joanna, a beauty therapist, they started experimenting with the possibilities of using seaweed in skincare products.
“We literally started making concoctions at our kitchen table,” says Malcolm, “and now, some 12 years later, we have a wide collection of products, for retail and spas, and our sales are growing 20% per year.”
The brand first launched with its now bestselling Anti-oxidant Marine Cream. However, the first iteration of the product was a brown-coloured cream with a strong seaweed scent. Malcolm, Joanna and Martin knew there was something special about it, but it needed tweaking. At that point, Leon Trayling, who worked at Blythswood Hotel Spa at the time, came on board to help with developing the brand identity and refining the products to appeal to spas. With Malcolm’s scientific background, he developed a unique extraction process, which removed the odour of the seaweed, while keeping its potent vitamin, mineral and antioxidant properties full of benefits for the skin.
Ishga now employs 60 people on the island and produces some 40 different skincare, body and home fragrance products. It is also found in spas belonging to the Dorchester Collection and Conrad hotels, as well as being supplied to stores and smaller spas across the world. Passionate about its Hebridean roots and sustainable values, at the heart of all the products is the homegrown seaweed extract, with the seaweed being sustainably harvested from the shores of the island. (The brand has a licence to harvest seaweed throughout the Isle of Lewis and works in conjunction with Scottish Natural Heritage and SEPA (Scottish Environment Protection Agency) to ensure the harvest is sustainable and environmentally friendly.)
While Ishga has been harnessing the goodness of seaweed for some 12 years, it is not the only brand placing the ingredient at its heart, with The Cornish Seaweed Bath Company, Voya, La Mer and Haeckels all brands recognising its power. Describing it as a ‘superfood’ for the skin, Malcolm says that not only does it have potent skin benefits, but part of the attraction is that it is an eco-friendly marine ingredient that is in plentiful supply around the world. A recent survey shows that the global seaweed cosmetic ingredients market was valued at US$500m in 2023, and it is estimated to grow to US$900m by 2034. In 2024, the National Institute of Health outlined its attraction in the cosmetic, cosmeceutics and nutricosmetics industries, with the increase in use feeding into a larger trend of ‘blue cosmetics’, whereby the use of seaweed and other marine ingredients are sustainably and ethically harvested for environmentally-friendly products.
“Hebridean seaweed contains a host of vitamins, minerals, trace elements and amino acids which nurture and protect the skin,” says Malcolm. “We harvest around 300kg every two weeks, extracting it directly into Hebridean spring water using a low temperature process, which protects the beneficial compounds and enzymes. Rich in polyphenols, the extract provides protection against environmental damage to the skin by neutralising free radicals.”
As well as a contemporary shop in Stornoway, the brand conjures up its product line-up from a lab and factory on the Isle of Lewis—with many products being bottled by hand (“although we have just taken hold of some state-of-the-art production equipment,” says Malcolm). Whether it is face moisturisers or body oils, all the products are anti-ageing, hydrating, protecting and nourishing. Stepping foot into Ishga’s realm is a heady experience, with the scent of essential oils, and its concoction of extracts—including cucumber, macadamia, jojoba, thistle oil, Hebridean sea salt, aloe vera and lemon peel—filling the air.
Towards the south of the island, close to Loch Soval Beag, there are no lab coats to be seen. Here, low-lying clouds, which seem to kiss the boggy marshes surrounding the water, are the only moving feature. It turns out that this remote spot is another site of importance for Ishga. Here, under the land, runs natural spring water, which can be accessed via natural wells—known as healing wells—which have been used since the 1700s, when folklore said that water could cure an assortment of ailments.
“I’ve know people who still swear by the healing waters,” says Malcolm. “And the fact is that it is excellent for skincare, as it contains a potent mineral content including potassium, magnesium and sulphates. Just like the seaweed, it is one of the island’s natural resources but we don’t own it. We are simply guardians, so we look after the environments that we benefit from—whether it is the beach or the water—we respect the land.”
From its Hydra+ Marine Cream, launched to celebrate the brand’s 10 year anniversary, to the Hebridean Dreams Candle, scented with rose geranium, juniper, lavender and lemongrass, the brand has a 360° approach to beauty and wellness. The products and associated therapies (which transport you to the islands with their relaxing therapies and via Swell, a soothing sea soundscape, that you can also download to listen to at home) are also featured in over 70 prestigious spas across the world, including Coworth Park, Fairmont St Andrews and Conrad Tokyo.
Next up, Malcolm is looking at launching a sun cream and a skin tint—which are both in development—and is in talks with a major supplier in China.
“We are still a relatively small company but, admittedly, things in this industry can often change overnight,” he says modestly. “We might be found across the world, but, for me, my world remains here in the Hebrides, in a landscape that has barely changed in centuries. It is where I was born and where Ishga was dreamt up. This authenticity will always be the essence of the brand.”