Ever since Jennifer Aniston, Miley Cyrus and Kim Kardashian—to name just a few celebs—touted the perks of a salmon sperm facial, the unique ingredient has taken skincare by storm. Salmon DNA boasts skin regeneration, improving radiance, texture and hydration. But it’s about to be eclipsed by a new fish sperm that claims even more anti-aging perks: Sturgeon DNA. The new Valmont l’Elixir Des Glaciers Serum is one of the first products to spotlight the ingredient. The regenerative serum enhances glow and texture, rejuvenates, brightens and hydrates.
“We trace a parallel between sturgeon with caviar, and caviar is very precious,” says Sophie Vann Guillon, CEO of Valmont. “Sturgeon is a fish that has existed a very, very, very long time. This species could go through all the ages of earth through time and that is very important for anti-aging because it shows resilience. When we looked specifically into the efficacy of sturgeon DNA, it works on elasticity. Sturgeon is rarer than salmon, giving even more preciousness to this fish. The process of extracting it allows more DNA to come out. On top of that, we chose a farm that is B-Corp Certified.”
Valmont partnered with Caviar de Neuvic, a fish farm located in Dordogne in southwest France that focuses on ethical sturgeon breeding, for the l’Elixir Des Glaciers collection that launched in 2021. After sturgeon was nearly fished to extinction in the Black Sea, creating a caviar crisis, it is now regulated through farms to rehabilitate the species. Known for their sustainable practices, the French caviar producer is committed to conscientious farming, keeping the well-being of the fish top of mind and constantly improving their methods through R&D.
The l’Elixir Des Glaciers Serum features two different kinds of sturgeon DNA, at a high and low molecular weight to maximize results, with two different extraction methods. Nailing the incredibly lightweight and smooth texture of the serum was a steep challenge, but they took the time to do so over two years, even delaying the launch until it was just right.
“It is a celebration in terms of science and sensoriality, because it is a lamellar structure, so it’s more complicated to formulate with the highest concentration that we have in terms of minerals with the sturgeon DNA,” Vann Guillon says. “It’s very powerful, but also very dewy, so when you touch it, it [absorbs] quickly into your skin, doesn’t leave any residue and it’s very active, directly and deeply in the tissue. That’s what we wanted.”
Having two types of sturgeon DNA with different weights of cells is key to the formula. One type of sturgeon DNA works on the surface of the skin to protect, hydrate and repair, while the second penetrates deeply to stimulate collagen and elastin. Together, they lead to a glowing effect thanks to improved texture and tone.
“The sturgeon DNA that comes from Caviar de Neuvic is matched with another sturgeon DNA,” Vann Guillon says. “Both of them are very costly, and both act at different layers of the skin. One is high molecular weight, so it’s going to stay at the surface, because the higher the molecular weight is, the more time you need to dissolve it and let it penetrate into your skin. The other one is low molecular weight, obtained by biotechnology, so it’s going to go deeper. Therefore, when you apply it, layers of your skin are protected and taken care of.”
The sturgeon DNA works synergistically with plant extractions in the formula. “I love nature and ingredients from nature,” Vann Guillon says. There is magnesium to boost the energy of the skin, manganese to promote the metabolization of nutrients in skin, and selenium to neutralize the free radicals and strengthen the skin’s natural defenses.
Sleek and stylish, the packaging exudes elegance while remaining true to Valmont’s sustainability efforts. “The reason we chose Caviar de Neuvic is because we share the same values, because he went one step further in the B-Corp report,” Vann Guillon says. “His belief matches his actions.” The packaging is crafted from recycled paper, doesn’t include a spatula and a QR code on the box replaces a paper leaflet.
“We are farmers, so we know we have a negative impact on the planet, but we want this impact to be the lowest possible,” says Laurent Deverlanges, CEO of Caviar de Neuvic. “Our commitment to use the maximum parts of the fish is very important. That’s why we worked a lot to make something with the skin, to make something with the head of the fish. As it takes time—10 years to farm a fish—we have the necessity to use every part of this precious fish to [reduce] waste. Our commitment drives us to meet people like Valmont, because we want to do the best with what we have.” To minimize waste, practically the entire fish is used for other industries, such as the air bladder used for glue for violins and the skin for collagen supplements.
The serum is the most potent product in the l’Elixir Des Glaciers collection. “Thanks to the DNA and minerals that we have put inside, it infuses a lot of power for hydration, to keep the water inside the cells and also bring them a lot of minerals,” Vann Guillon says. “It brings a lot of glow and vitality to skin. It was super difficult to fit so many ingredients into a formula that is so light and watery, but I got the tests results back from the laboratories and it’s amazing how powerful this little thing is. It makes my customers puzzled. How does that work? How could we do that? It was a lot of trials. And it’s a mystery.”