History has a way of sneaking up on us. Consider the Lungarotti winery in Umbria, for example. Known for the celebrated Rubesco red, it is a surprise to many that this wine was first made in 1962, several years before the DOC system was put into place in Italy. Recently, Chiara Lungarotti, CEO of the family business that has two wine estates in Umbria, introduced a new wine called Rubesco 62, both in honor of this wine as well as a celebration of one of Umbria’s – and Italy’s – most respected producers.
Umbria has too often been underrated among Italian wine regions for various reasons, not the least because it’s not Tuscany or Piedmont; hence there isn’t a world-famous red wine such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti Classico or Brunello di Montalcino produced in the region. That’s a pity, as there are so many beautiful red wines – and a handful of whites – that emerge from Umbria; Rubesco has been one of the most successful.
While there are several red and white wines produced at Lungarotti, Rubesco is the company’s calling card. A blend of Sangiovese and Colorino (a red varietal often blended with Sangiovese to add color to the wine), Rubesco is a medium-bodied red, somewhat similar to a Tuscan red (such as Chianti Classico), but with its own personality, offering notes of tobacco and pepper; it’s a wonderful accompaniment to most tomato or meat-based pastas.
There is a second Rubesco produced at Lungarotti; this a Rubesco riserva from a single vineyard named Vigna Monticchio. First produced from the 1983 vintage, and classified as a DOCG wine in 1990, this is richer on the palate than the classic Rubesco, with more pronounced aromatics (black plum and morel cherry) and more impressive complexity and aging potential; this is one of Umbria’s most accomplished red wines.
Getting back to the new wine, Rubesco 62, this is a lighter-styled red that offer classic Sangiovese flavors and is meant for earlier consumption than the standard Rubesco; it has very good acidity and harmony, and would be best paired with lighter red meats, bean soups or vegetables. A companion wine is a white called Torre di Giano 62, a blend of Trebbiano and Grechetto; medium-bodied with light herbal notes in the finish, pair this with lake fish or young cow’s cheese.
While Torgiano is the original home of Lungarotti as a wine producer, they have also established a winery in Montefalco, southeast of Torgiano, and a bit north of the town of Spoleto. Lungarotti told me that upon the death of her father in 1999, she started to take over the winery; she was 27 at the time. “At this point, we took our first step out Torgiano.”
That was the beginning of Montefalco wines for Lungarotti, the most famous of which is Montefalco Sagrantino; the Sagrantino grape is one of the most tannic varieties in Italy; these wines need more time after release to become more approachable compared to Sangiovese-based Rubesco. “We wanted to demonstrate the Sagrantino can be an extremely enjoyable wine to drink. We started to tame in the vineyards and at the winery.” This was accomplished with reducing the length of the maceration as well as using a lower temperature during this winemaking process. The Lungarotti Montefalco Sagrantino is quite elegant, and while it does need a few years after release to shed some of its tannins, it is a complex wine that beautifully pairs with game birds and most red meats some four to five years after the vintage, while the wine typically peaks at 10-12 years.
I wrote earlier that Lungarotti is preserving wine history; the best example of this is at the Muvit Museo del Vino in Torgiano. Lungarotti told me that I needed to see this, and I agreed, but hoped that it was not the typical Italian wine museum with a few old corkscrews and faded documents. She told me this was different, and that I would most certainly enjoy it. Boy, was she right! This is a substantial museum, with a wide variety of exhibits, ranging from tools and technical equipment for viticulture and winemaking, ceramic wine containers of the Middle Ages, Renaissance, Baroque ages as well as contemporary, engravings and drawings from the 15th to the 20th century, and wine-themed paintings and lithographs from celebrated artists over this time frame; there is even an original work by Picasso on display. If you are ever in Torgiano and love learning about the history and romance of wine, a visit to this museum is a must. (For more information on the museum, click here.)
The 60-plus year history of the Lungarotti winery is in great hands with Chiara Lungarotti, thanks not only to her dedication to her wines, but also her tribute to the history of Italian wines over the centuries. Brava, Chiara!
Notes on a few current releases from Lungarotti:
Torre di Giano 62 (Bianco di Torgiano Umbria DOC) – A blend of Trebbiano and Grechetto; aromas of melon, mint and green herbs. Medium-bodied, with a light herbal finish. Pair with couscous or lighter seafood over the next three to five years. (91)
Rubesco 62 (Rosso di Torgiano Umbria DOC) – 100% Sangiovese; medium-bodied with aromas of red plum, cherry pie and chrysanthemum. There’s no need to think about this delightful wine – you simply enjoy with soups and lighter pastas over the next three to four years. (90)
Rubesco Riserva Vigna Monticchio 2019 – 100% Sangiovese. 2019 was an excellent vintage in Umbria, as evidenced by this glorious wine. Medium-full with excellent complexity and flavors of morel cherry and red plum, along with a savory note of soy sauce. There is very good acidity, while the tannins are quite fine, and the oak notes are restrained. This will evolve over the next 10-12 years (perhaps even longer) and would best be paired with a hearty dish such as pork roast with truffles or Peking Duck. (93)
San Giorgio 2019 (Umbria Rosso IGT) – One of the two signature wines from Lungarotti, this is their best wine in many vintages. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Sangiovese from hillside vineyards in the Torgiano area, this has expressive aromas of black plum, morel cherry, black mint and subtle notes of iodine and soy. Medium-full with impressive concentration and very good acidity, this demands patience, as it will be at its best in 12-18 years. Pair with filet mignon or leg of lamb. (94)
Montefalco Rosso 2021 – A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 25% Sagrantino and 5% Merlot. Morel cherry, thyme and forest floor aromas. Medium-bodied, this is a charming wine with moderate tannins and good acidity styled for consumption within the next three to five years; pair with lighter pastas and vegetables. (88)
Montefalco Sagrantino 2021 – 100% Sagrantino, this 2021 vintage is just being released. Medium deep ruby red /light purple, this exhibits aromas of wild cherry, blackberry and violets. Medium-full with rich, but well balanced tannins, this needs time to round out, and should be at its best in another 10-12 years. You can serve it tonight, however with such dishes as suckling pig, roast lamb or venison. (93)