Between Instagram and #BeautyTok, skincare advice is plenty (think beef tallow and face-taping). But when the experts who eat INCI intel for breakfast tell you there’s an ingredient to watch, you take note. And right now, the name on their lips is bisabolol.
While it has been used in skincare for centuries (from traditional medicine to modern acne treatments and sunscreens), bisabolol largely flew under the radar until the recent shift toward natural, barrier-repairing ingredients put it in the spotlight.
The naturally occurring compound comes in two forms. Alpha-bisabolol, which is commonly extracted from the essential oils of German chamomile and Brazilian candeia tree. Though it can also be produced synthetically, explains Dr. Hallie McDonald, board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of ERLY Skincare. And beta-bisabolol, which is derived mainly from corn and cotton plants.
“Alpha-bisabolol is the one predominantly used in skincare because it’s better studied, has a milder scent, and is considered more potent,” notes Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a dual fellowship-trained dermatologist.
So what exactly does bisabolol do for your skin? And how can you work it into your routine? Let’s find out.
How Bisabolol Benefits Your Skin
Bisabolol is an anti-inflammatory powerhouse. It calms redness and irritation by reducing the skin’s inflammatory response and strengthening the skin barrier, making it especially effective for redness-, acne-, and rosacea-prone skin, says Dr. McDonald.
Adding to its zit-zapping street cred, bisabolol is a natural antimicrobial that prevents acne-causing bacteria from proliferating and worsening inflammation, says Dr. Anna Chacon, board-certified dermatologist specializing in medical dermatology and dermatologic surgery.
According to Dr. McDonald, the bioactive compound is also an antioxidant heavy-hitter, protecting your skin from free radicals that contribute to skin damage and premature aging.
Not only that, it enhances penetration of other actives like vitamin C and retinol, while its anti-inflammatory properties help improve the tolerability of these ingredients, Dr. McDonald explains. “Think of bisabolol as a skincare wingman—it can make other actives work harder, but it can also smooth over their rough edges,” she says.
Plus, it’s non-comedogenic and may help correct hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage or scarring, says Valerie Aparovich, biochemist and science team lead at OnSkin. “Bisabolol also has a very low potential for irritation and photosensitivity,” she adds.
How To Use Bisabolol In Your Skincare Routine
Ready to add bisabolol to your skincare arsenal? Here’s how to do it right, according to dermatologists:
- Do a patch test first: Bisabolol is generally well tolerated, even by those with sensitive skin. But if you have a sensitivity or allergy to it or plants in the Asteraceae family like chamomile, irritation is possible, says Dr. Peterson Pierre, a Stanford-trained, board-certified dermatologist.
- Layer it right: Dr. Chacon recommends applying your bisabolol product in the right order for best results. For example, if you’re using a bisabolol serum or moisturizer, apply it on clean skin while it’s still damp for better absorption. Applying it at this stage also helps increase absorption of other actives you apply later on.
- Stay consistent: “Bisabolol can be used daily, morning or night. The most important thing is consistency,” says Dr. Pierre. He recommends 12 weeks of consistent use for maximum benefits.
- Pair it carefully: “Bisabolol combines seamlessly with other barrier-friendly ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and zinc oxide,” says Dr. McDonald. However, she recommends exercising caution when using it alongside strong actives like prescription-strength retinoids or benzoyl peroxide.
Lastly, it’s important to keep in mind that no single ingredient can do everything, so combining it with healthy skincare habits like sun protection and proper sleep is essential.