Probably better known to whiskey fanatics than casual drinkers, Wolves is a California-based whiskey brand noted for its explorations in the realm of American Single Malt. Founded in 2015 by UNDEFEATED apparel founder James Bond and fashion designer Jon Buscemi, the brand was one of the earliest in American whiskey to plant its flag in the “luxury” market.
Of course, calling oneself a luxury brand and delivering on that promise are two separate things, especially given an increasingly knowledgeable—and discerning—drinking public. Wolves has thus focused on two main endeavors in order to carve out its high-end market share. The first is a continuing line of American single malts produced by Master Distiller Marko Karakasevic, who also heads production operations at cult favorite (and unabashedly eccentric) California distillery Charbay.
The second is a line of collaborative blends, most notably with Willett Distillery out of Bardstown, Kentucky. Willett itself has a large cult following, and even that’s probably an understatement. The family-owned and operated distillery produces much of its own distillate for legacy labels like Old Bardstown, Rowan’s Creek, and Noah’s Mill.
But it’s the Willett Family Estate line of releases that has kept the high-end market in a partial headlock, especially via a string of coveted single barrel releases sourced from a variety of other Kentucky distilleries. Those “sourced” Willett Family Estate (WFE) bottles can often command thousands depending on age and suspected pedigree. The program also provided the whiskey for some of American whiskey’s most expensive resold bottlings, including the legendary Red Hook Rye. As Willett’s own house-distilled bourbon and rye reaches the 12 year-plus mark, it’s also proven popular under the WFE label.
The latest Wolves X Willett release is their third in a line of blended ryes, this time marrying 10 year Kentucky rye barrels from Willett with 10 year Indiana rye, aged for its final three years in Northern California. We don’t know the exact blend breakdown, but we do have some clues as far as sourcing. That Indiana component was selected by Wolves’ Head Blender Eddie Gonzalez and likely came from Ross & Squibb (formerly MGP). The Kentucky component could be either in-house Willett rye or liquid sourced from another Kentucky producer; the brands haven’t publicly specified.
“Partnering with Willett on this release has been an honor,” says Jennifer Marks, President of Wolves, in a press statement. “This rare blend reflects our shared dedication to craftsmanship and bridges two distinct whiskey traditions, combining Willett’s storied Kentucky legacy with Wolves’ modern California perspective.”
The final bottling clocks in at 103 proof and carries a 10 year age statement. We got an early taste, and it’s certainly a pour that stands on unique flavor combinations.
The nose is punchy, bright, and citrus-forward, rich in burnt orange peel, peppermint candy canes, pine sap, semi-sweet baking chocolate, and birch bark. Those borderline fruity and herbal aromas intersect with plentiful spice, including cinnamon, allspice, and clove chewing gum. It’s got depth and character on the nose rare for either an Indiana or Kentucky rye on thor own; the blend is clearly accomplishing a lot at this juncture. Brand tasting notes emphasize the “layered” aspect of this whiskey, and here at least, that’s proving true.
Citrus and spice dominated the nose, though a first sip is a little sweeter, slightly more subdued, and generally more indicative of an Indiana high-rye recipe than Kentucky-style. Sweet, herbal chewing gum (think wintergreen) meets candied ginger, along with Andes Creme de Menthe chocolates. Subsequent tastes bring forward more sweetness at the nexus of mint and chocolate, and flavors harmonize closer across the midpalate. Further back in the mouth, oak tannins cut through the aforementioned components and bring a welcome element of age, as if the rye waited until the last possible opportunity to remind you of its decade-plus pedigree.
The finish is increasingly tannic—though not drying or overly astringent—with pleasant, lingering notes of mint chocolate (or peppermint-spiced hot chocolate), sniderdoodles, and herbal syrup. It almost reminds me of the last sips of a good Mint Julep, though significantly more balanced and likely appealing to even those who find that famed whiskey cocktail overly cloying.
Wolves and Willett Limited-Edition 10-Year Rye Whiskey carries an MSRP of $355 (it is marketed as a luxury release, after all) and is available in limited supply at wolveswhiskeyca.com.