Indian artisan communities have quietly powered the global fashion industry for decades, their extraordinary skills often uncredited despite driving major luxury collections. From Prada’s interpretation of traditional Kolhapuri sandals to Louis Vuitton’s autorickshaw-inspired bags and Gucci’s custom sari for actress Alia Bhatt at the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, the fashion world increasingly turns to India for inspiration, yet the master craftspeople behind these techniques remain largely invisible.
Designer Tinka Weener is changing that narrative with her couture label Songs of Siren, launched in late 2024. Drawing from her experience freelance styling for Alexander McQueen and working across retail, photography, and fashion PR in Los Angeles, Weener has created a brand that doesn’t just borrow from Indian traditions, but celebrates them as the centerpiece of every collection.
A Modern Mythology Rooted in Ancient Indian Craft
“The collection is positioned as a modern interpretation of timeless tales, celebrating the power and allure of femininity in a contemporary context,” Weener explains. While her brand takes its name from Greek mythology and reimagines sirens not as dangerous temptresses but as powerful feminine archetypes, the soul of Songs of Siren lies in India’s textile heritage.
Her debut collection features intricate hand-beading and sculptural silhouettes designed to make women look and feel their best. The meticulous detail and artistry found in traditional Indian embroidery techniques are meant to empower the wearer, a concept deeply inspired by her time at Alexander McQueen, where she witnessed firsthand how exceptional craftsmanship could transform both garment and wearer.
Authentic Indian Collaboration, Not Cultural Appropriation
Shot in Mumbai and creatively directed by Indiana Vos, Songs of Siren’s latest campaign serves as a vibrant love letter to India’s rich textile traditions. But this isn’t surface-level inspiration. In fact, Weener has built her entire creative and production team around authentic Indian collaboration.
Working with Indian stylist Shrreeya Shorewala, the campaign incorporates traditional accessories and clothing pieces including saris, potli bags, and dhoti pants. The models are women of South Asian descent wearing culturally inspired accessories. “There is this elegance and confidence in Indian women that you cannot find anywhere else,” Weener notes. “Everyone is so warm and welcoming and they really make me feel at home whenever I’m there.”
This approach stands in stark contrast to fashion’s tendency to reduce rich cultural traditions to “bohemian” trends mixed with Western wear. Instead, Songs of Siren places Indian craftsmanship at the focus, giving it the respect and recognition it deserves.
The Art of Aari: Preserving Ancient Indian Techniques
At the heart of Weener’s collections lies the Aari technique, which is an embroidery method using a hooked needle that requires extraordinary skill and patience. Craftsmen sit on the floor, one hand plying the sharp needle from above while the other feeds silk thread from below the fabric. It’s painstakingly time-consuming and detail-oriented work, with each piece emerging as a unique work of art.
“I love how it’s the polar opposite of what a lot of fashion brands do in this day and age,” Weener explains. “It’s not focused on speed and overconsumption. I wanted to create a brand that slows down the process and focuses on the human aspect to create truly timeless pieces of wearable art.”
Working with Anurag Vora, Co-Founder of Ricamour Embroideries, Weener communicates her vision through drawings, mood boards, and inspiration images. The collaborative process involves multiple stages: creating small swatches for feedback, developing artwork for beading on dress panels, and maintaining constant communication through work-in-progress photos and videos to ensure the final pieces align perfectly with her creative vision.
Ethical Conditions Are Cornerstone Of This Indian-Inspired Brand
In an industry facing increasing scrutiny over labor practices such as the recent expose of Italian luxury brand Loro Piana over worker abuse, Weener has made ethical conditions non-negotiable. Her partner atelier focuses intensively on fair labor practices and ethical working conditions, providing not just fair wages and paid annual leave, but government-mandated pensions and private health insurance that extends to workers’ families.
During Diwali, the annual Festival of Lights, artisans receive annual bonuses, with top performers earning higher rewards for exceptional work. The atelier also provides interest-free loans to help craftspeople buy houses or land, ensuring their families’ long-term financial security. This comprehensive approach to worker welfare stands as a model for how fashion brands can operate ethically while producing extraordinary work.
Recognizing And Celebrating Indian Fashion
More than commercial success, Songs of Siren represents a fundamental shift in how fashion brands can engage with cultural traditions. Rather than extracting inspiration without acknowledgment, Weener has built her entire brand around showcasing and celebrating Indian artisanship on the global stage.
“We produce in India and work directly with extraordinarily skilled artisans,” she emphasizes. “We want to highlight their incredible work and demonstrate that we are not outsourcing or trying to hide where our garments come from. Their artistry, attention to detail, and brilliance help bring our creative vision to life, and we want to celebrate that.”
Each garment tells a story of collaboration and respect, transforming fashion from cultural appropriation into genuine partnership. The campaign brings India’s master craftspeople into the spotlight where they belong: not as hidden labor, but as celebrated artists.
“My ultimate goal is for everyone who wears one of these pieces to feel confident and proud,” Weener concludes. “I want them to know that they are wearing a work of art, infused with history and created with passion. This is about empowering through fashion and giving a global platform to the incredible Indian artisans who are the true stars of this project.”