As a flood of criticism continues to surround the release of Ryan Murphy’s American Love Story screen test—with specific concerns regarding the “never-worn” and “too-new looking” styling of the project’s female lead and real-life style figure Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy fueling the conversation—a light is shined on the greater shift in cultural consumerism that has begun to take place, one that glorifies lived-in clothing and aged accessories as a signifier of modern elitism.
The clearest expression of this recent cultural phenomenon takes shape with the hyper-specific treatment of one garment in particular: the Boat and Tote.
As with the popularization of several other traditionally East Coast closet staples—hailed as must-have items within the past several trend cycles—L.L.Bean’s iconized Boat and Tote bag silhouette has been reintroduced to consumers all across the United States, many of whom were previously unaware of the brand’s hero product and its longstanding legacy.
Fueled by the accessory’s newfound glamorization and young shoppers’ urgency to own it, the tote has become the perfect canvas to project this newly desired aesthetic upon in the form of manual distressing.
Rather than waiting for subtle wear and tear to naturally accumulate with consistent use, consumers are documenting themselves purposely distressing their brand-new bag for a more “lived in” look on social media. Many individuals are even reaching out through the comment sections of related videos for tips on how to achieve a naturally worn appearance without actually having to wear-in the accessory consistently.
All too familiar with the fixation consumers have on styling a not-so-effortlessly distressed L.L.Bean Boat and Tote is Niko Arredondo, a content creator based out of Phoenix, Ariz.
Following several videos in which he shows off his uniquely customized tote bag to the camera—personally adorned with grommets, carabiners, keychains, snap closures, metal feet and embroidery—Arredondo has garnered a community of viewers inspired by his craftsmanship and creativity.
In an interview, Arredondo described his own fondness for the lived-in look, illustrating why so many might be shifting away from the preservation of precious garments.
“I love watching it age over time. I don’t feel inclined to clean it or make sure it looks just as the day I bought it. I’ve always had this fantasy of my children’s children finding “Grandpa’s Bag” not pristine, but stained, distressed and evident of a fun life lived. While diamond rings, jewelry and old cars have been the heirlooms of the past, I want my everyday items to be something worth holding onto.”
However, despite the time and care Arredondo has put into personalizing his Boat and Tote, the subtle damage acquired by his bag has been nothing but organic, using it daily for over two years and adding each element of customization one at a time as needed for practicality.
So what is it about the look of a beat-up tote bag that’s so alluring? Enticing consumers to accelerate the natural deterioration process and forfeit any resemblance of authenticity in favor of manufactured aestheticism.
In an interview with Nancy Deihl, fashion historian and chair of the Department of Art and Art Professions at New York University, the academic touched on one reason why she believes this phenomenon has emerged: the desire for distinction.
“It seems as much as someone might say, ‘Oh, I don’t care about clothes like that,’ I’ve never really met anyone who really didn’t care,” she said. “Even just saying ‘I don’t care about clothes’ is a statement. So, it’s hard to distinguish yourself.”
Deihl continued, saying, “In fact, I think it’s so strange, because there’s so many stores selling things that really look similar, it’s surprising we don’t see more people like on the streets of New York, dressed alike. Somehow we managed to not be a twin next to with the person we’re standing next to in line.”
In the same interview, the professor elaborated on this theory by linking it to similar patterns of consumer behavior present within previous decades.
“I also think about the 1970s in the late 60s, when people were doing all kinds of do-it-yourself distressing to their jeans for distinction, to make it look like theirs. Like fraying and sanding and bleaching, to make it look like this is something I wear all the time. I didn’t just go out and buy it.”
Given the current economic climate and looming recession within the United States—factors which have begun to significantly impact the habits of the average consumer—it is unsurprising why similar behaviors have emerged.
The intentional aging of one’s Boat and Tote additionally parallels the popularized bag charm movement that has dominated the accessory industry in recent months—inspiring consumers to customize their handbags for unique distinction and subtly communicate that their item is well-loved.
While Arredondo views the trend with a positive perspective, the content creator encourages consumers to express themselves beyond their bags and allow their accessories to reflect their real-life.
“I think many people can tell the difference between a brand new tote that’s been distressed and one that’s been around a while. I think the perfect way to distress the Boat & Tote is to find a balance between the artificial and the real thing,” he said. “I would encourage people to get creative in customizing their totes, and even more adventurous in where they take them!”