My mother moved to San Francisco from Los Angeles not long ago, and it’s inspiring everyone I know. Five years after my father passed, my mom accepted an offer to move into the downstairs apartment of her childhood best friend’s house in leafy, lovely Presidio Heights. It’s a bold new adventure. Mom’s making friends, discovering new restaurants, taking yoga classes. She bought herself an Apple watch and a cool denim jacket. She’s ride-sharing all over town. And here’s the thing: She’s 87.
What’s good for her is great for me. Since she relocated, I’ve gotten to explore a new city and phenomenal new-to-me neighborhoods. The Presidio, Presidio Heights and adjacent Pacific Heights are among the most walkable, elegant, and quietly dazzling neighborhoods in San Francisco—where wooded trails and laid-back chic meet old-money refinement. It’s worth a visit just to stroll the three-block stretch of Broadway between Lyon and Divisadero Streets known as “Billionaire’s Row,” whose residents include Oracle founder Larry Ellison, Sting, and Steve Jobs’ widow, Laurene Powell Jobs.
Every time I visit, I’m awestruck by the views, the architecture, and the distinct city magic that defines the hills and parks in my mom’s new hood. Here’s a quick guide to the best places to eat, shop, stay, and wander The Presidio and Pacific Heights—whether you’re 37, 87, or somewhere in between.
WHERE TO STAY IN SAN FRANCISCO’S HIDDEN-GEM NEIGHBORHOODS
My mother’s downstairs studio is delightful, but we can’t all stay there. And while both Presidio Heights and Pacific Heights are solidly residential, there are a handful of standout hotels that offer something rare, especially for San Francisco: a little calm just beyond the city’s clamor.
The Lodge at the Presidio is a 42-room retreat nestled inside 1,500-acre Presidio National Park & Tunnel Tops. The lodge occupies a former Army barracks, with fire pits, rocking chairs, and postcard-worthy views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Its 22-room sister property, the Inn at the Presidio, is cozier, with wood-burning fireplaces and a front porch that feels more like a country estate than a San Francisco hotel. For a more polished, hilltop experience, Hotel Drisco in Pacific Heights offers old-world elegance with champagne breakfasts and a house-car to whisk you around.
For something stylish, low-key, and perfectly situated, I highly recommend The Laurel Inn—a mid-century modern retreat on the edge of Pacific Heights, with big windows, quiet rooms, and just enough retro charm — fresh-baked cookies! — to make you feel like it’s your own neighborhood pied-a-terre (although, full disclosure: it’s a JDV by Hyatt property). My mother’s friend and “roomie,” Barbara, a longtime neighborhood resident, recommends The Laurel to all her visitors, since the hotel is within easy walking distance of the neighborhood’s best bakeries, shops and restaurants.
WHERE TO EAT AROUND PACIFIC HEIGHTS AND PRESIDIO HEIGHTS
Presidio Heights and Pacific Heights are less touristy than many spots in San Francisco but there are tons of dining options, from atmospheric cafes to white-linen charmers.
Our go-to for Burmese—and favorite lunch with mom—is Mandalay, a neighborhood institution since 1984 with a loyal local following and nods from Michelin and the James Beard Foundation. It’s friendly, bustling, and deeply satisfying. Order the tea leaf salad and the pumpkin pork stew.
A few blocks away, Magic Flute Garden Ristorante feels plucked from another time in the best way. There’s a glass conservatory, a patio draped in greenery, and a crowd that’s one part ladies-who-lunch, one part neighborhood regulars celebrating birthdays. The pasta is delicious, and if you go twice, the staff will likely remember you.
Spruce is a Presidio Heights fine-dining spot that reminds you you’re steps from those mansions on “Billionaire’s Row.” But they also have one of the city’s most raved-about burgers. Just down the hill, B. Patisserie is a must for kouign-amann, those crackly, caramelized Breton pastries that made pastry chef Belinda Leong a citywide legend. If that’s not [chef’s kiss] enough, the French bakery Arsicaut always has a line down the street for what many say are San Francisco’s finest croissants and pains au chocolate.
If you’re walking through the Presidio itself, Colibri Mexican Bistro inside the Officers’ Club is worth the stop for mole, mezcal, and stunning views of the Main Post lawn. It’s a lovely place to land after a long loop through the eucalyptus groves or the new Tunnel Tops park.
WHAT TO DO IN PACIFIC HEIGHTS AND THE PRESIDIO
Start with a walk. Pacific Heights and The Presidio have some one of the most strollable corners of San Francisco, and the best way to see the area is on foot. Begin at the Lyon Street Steps, a cascading, flower-lined staircase that runs from Pacific Heights into the Presidio. The views of rooftops, treetops, and (if the fog cooperates) the Bay are nothing short of cinematic. You’ll see locals treating the steep streets and stairways as both gym and photo op. From there, stroll west through the Presidio’s winding trails and woodlands, or head north toward Tunnel Tops, the new public park perched above Crissy Field, where landscaped trails lead you to food trucks and skyline views.
I love the out-of-time quality in the Presidio itself. For a dose of cultural history, visit the Walt Disney Family Museum, tucked into a quiet stretch of the park, or stop by the historic Officers’ Club, one of the oldest buildings in the city and a surprisingly Zen space to explore California’s early history. On sunny days, it’s nice to pack a blanket and wander into Lovers’ Lane, a peaceful, tree-canopied path originally used by soldiers traveling between posts.
In Pacific Heights, merely walking the neighborhood is an architectural tour. I never get tired of “Billionaire’s Row,” where the homes look like something out of Edith Wharton (and sometimes, Dwell; you can quickly figure out new tech money from old gold). A few blocks away, Alta Plaza Park is one of the best-kept picnic spot secrets in town, with terraced lawns, tennis courts, and wide-open views over the Marina.
Sacramento Street is lined with mostly non-chain stores and boutiques, independent booksellers, and home décor shops. There’s always something delicious to sample at The Epicurean Trader. You can browse textiles at March, or just wander and window-shop this sublime corner of San Fransisco, and maybe say yes to a denim jacket of your own.