Since it was first unveiled at picturesque Taormina, Sicily in 2012, Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda shows have proven to be the most exclusive, and visually captivating of all fashion spectacles. In the past 13 years, he formidable design duo behind Alta Moda, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, has brought the magic of this haute couture experience to idyllic destinations like Milan, Cuomo, Agrigento in Sicily, Florence, Venice, Syracuse, and Puglia. It has also been held in in Paris.
Attendees of Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda shows are strictly A-list, consisting mostly of loyal haute couture clients and a only handful of top-tier celebrities. You will be hard pressed to find journalists or the usual roster of Fashion Week social media personalities in attendance. In an introduction to his newly-launched coffee table book, La Dolce Vita: Inside the World of Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda Fashion Shows, photographer Matt Lever writes: “[A] feature of the Alta Moda show is how extraordinarily personal they feel. The fact that there were hardly any photographers or journalists at the first few seasons was a testimony to how exclusive the whole occasion was…There isn’t a huge amount of press, or the circus that accompanies ready-to-wear.”
According to the lensman, known for capturing behind-the-scenes action during fashion shows, Alta Moda is a completely unique experience that takes place over an entire weekend. It is a love letter to Italy expressed through fashion, craft, tradition, festivities, camaraderie, and sense of la dolce vita. “It’s not just the fashion show, but also firework displays, meals and a party on the last night… Alta Moda guests are completely submerged in the opulent Dolce & Gabbana brand.” The first evening typically opens with a jewelry show, dinner and fireworks. The Alta Moda or haute couture presentation happens on the second day. The weekend is concluded with a men’s wear show, Alta Sartoria and an opulent party complete with live performances. Having covered Alta Moda shows since 2012, Lever is both witness and visual chronicler of the most exciting haute couture weekend in the fashion kingdom.
“The first Alta Moda was almost like a salon from the early days of haute couture. It felt very much like family,” he describes. Matt also observes that unlike ready-to-wear fashion shows, Alta Moda gives guests and those working behind-the-scenes more time to breathe and immerse themselves in the brand’s universe. “It’s the only show that’s happening and everyone is solely there for the Alta Moda show. All the models have been at a nearby hotel since the previous night, so there is no chaos at all. This and the lack of other photographers really give you time to compose your shots and think about the story you want to tell.”
Having built a substantial portfolio of runway and behind-the-scenes photographs from the Alta Moda shows, Lever’s La Dolce Vita was intended to transport readers right to the heart of the weekend fashion festivities. “I really like to capture the feeling of the show rather than just document the outfits. I really try to tell more of a story with each image, to capture the moment. If the show is in an amazing location, I really want to capture this as I think it’s integral to the story the designers were telling with the show and how they wanted the clothes to be seen. I really wanted to capture the beauty of the clothes, but also the intense focus of the designers and the hard work that goes into making these garments.”
Coverage of the Venice show in 221 inspired Lever to capture the tedious work done behind the scenes, while still showcasing the serenity and grandeur of St. Mark’s Square and Canale di San Marco. He reminisces, “Some shows are easier to do than others. For the Venice show I really wanted to capture the beauty of the location as well as the clothes, to do justice to the designer’s vision. In the book, I wanted to convey the hard work of the models. I think that people don’t understand or appreciate their professionalism and hard work. That being said, in many of my favorite shots, the clothes aren’t always the center of attention. Sometimes the most beautiful image captures a moment rather than just focusing on the clothes. I’m more interested in a beautiful shot than just recording an outfit.”
For him, one of the most unforgettable moments captured by his lens was when models lined up for the finalé bow just as a storm and a double rainbow began to take over the heavens. “You couldn’t have orchestrated something more breathtaking,” he remembers. “There were these dark storm clouds rolling in from behind the runway, but there was still sunlight coming from behind me. And then the heavens opened just as the designers took their bow. I also managed to get the only lightning bolt of the evening in the shot I took of the model in the yellow dress with the umbrellas. The image looks photoshopped, but I swear it isn’t.” This is just one of countless magic moments featured in his book.
When asked about his fondest memory of Alta Moda, Lever intimates: “I have a lovely memory of Domenico telling myself and the other two photographers who were covering the show just how important Alta Moda was to him. It was a very special moment. Sometimes, the lines between art and commerce blur in this industry. This was a reminder that art is still very much important and that no matter how successful someone can become.” Proceeds from sales of La Dolce Vita will be dedicated to the Larkin Street Youth Services. This organization helps to house homeless youth in San Francisco. It also provides the young with health care and educational support as a means for breaking the cycle of homelessness.