The Tiktok trade wars of China and last year’s Dior scandal have shaken up an entire luxury segment. The idea of a Birkin, handcrafted by Chinese artisans using the finest materials, certainly makes one think twice about shelling out $36,000. You also begin to see the once covetable Dior book tote in a different light when you read about claims that it only cost $57 to produce. Given the opaque supply chains and restrictive DNAs used by the biggest maisons de luxe, these allegations might not be far from the truth.
Even before these core-shaking luxury exposés, disciples of the lt bag and shoe have been re-evaluating their fashion investments. Affluent consumers and tastemakers who were once too eager to buy into the exclusive world of heritage and tradition, have slowly shifted their preferences towards more authentic, design-focused, and understated labels. Among the first luxury brand alternatives to gain recognition and build a cult following of well-heeled clients was UK-based, leather accessory maker, NEOUS.
Founded by Vanissa Antonious in 2017, the brand gained the attention of fashion cognoscenti when it introduced its maiden collection of mid-heel footwear. They launched in five countries, which allowed them to connect with a style-led, global audience. Their proposition of luxury was straightforward, effortless, fresh, and irresistibly modern. And it was presented through the now iconic mid-heel shoe. “It’s synonymous with NEOUS,” shares Vanissa. “Our standout styles include the Irena point-toe pump with lace detailing, the Ibor sandal, and the iconic Jumel. The Hamal, an 80mm patent peep-toe, is quickly gaining status as a future classic.”
From day one, the brand has subscribed to Mies Van der Rohe’s minimalist aesthetic, shaping brand codes that are functional yet distinctively design forward. The founder and creative director elaborates, “At the heart of NEOUS lies a design language built on versatility, practicality, and a subtle yet unmistakable identity. Every piece is created with clean lines, thoughtful details, and a dedication to timelessness. Our DNA is rooted in craftsmanship, with a clear value proposition that elevates everyday luxury.” The mid-heel shoe is an embodiment of this ethos. The quintessential fashion girl will only wear one of two things: a fully flat shoe or heels that are at least four inches tall. No in betweens. But NEOUS’s mid heel compels style setters to rethink footwear options that provide both height and comfort.
According to Vanissa, her designs are often hatched from organic ideas or seemingly occurrences. “It can be a sketch, a found object, or everyday inspiration. Our design process is collaborative between London and Milan, and I remain deeply involved in prototyping. Sometimes the first sample is far from the final vision; other times, it’s perfect—reflecting the intuitive shorthand that comes with long-standing artisan relationships.”
By 2020, NEOUS began to venture into the creation of handbags. They launched with the Phoenix and Scorpious lines. Expansion of the product offering was pivotal in establishing the brand’s relevance as a luxury lifestyle brand. “Our core design continues to resonate across categories and new audiences. Newer silhouettes like the Berencies carryall and the Taurus dumpling in raffia have seen immediate sell-out success. The Aries bag is also emerging as a modern icon.” Smaller leather accessories were soon developed by NEOUS.
The collaborative work done by the brand, its creative director, partner artisans and makers have resulted in several milestones. “NEOUS has proudly been a three-time recipient of the BCF Fashion Trust. It was also nominated twice for the VOGUE Fashion Fund,” enumerates Vanissa. “A recent highlight was our first in-store residency at Selfridges London—an immersive experience curated in collaboration with Monument London, featuring mid-century design elements that brought the world of NEOUS to life.”
More recently, the brand also launched a high summer collection inspired by the concept of Modern Bohemianism. “NEOUS is in a constant state of evolution. Each season, we refine our techniques, deepen our connection with our customer, and push the boundaries of thoughtful design,” says Vanissa. For the collection, the creative director and former fashion editor built her very own design crossroads where urban functionality and the ease of bohemian living merge. “I was inspired to move beyond the traditional holiday wardrobe, and create a collection that transitions fluidly between city and coastal life during summer,” she intimates.
In true NEOUS form, the collection color palette was subdued, playing up the contrasts between sun-washed sand and deep chocolate. Pieces were crafted in Italy using responsibly sourced, highly textured materials like raffia and leather netting. And while there is certainly a play in texture and silhouette, the design codes of the brand continue to anchor pieces like the Atik slipper, Nenque shoe, and Taurus bag.
Vanissa confirms that “All NEOUS products are 100% made in Italy by skilled artisans in family-run factories. We prioritize sustainability—using by-product leathers, organic cotton, and recycled materials. Most of our materials are sourced in Italy, and we are steadily working toward achieving 100% local sourcing.” She attributes the brand’s success to the close relationships they’ve fostered with artisans in family run factories around Italy. More than that, NEOUS’s tight knit community–a cult of global citizens championing thoughtful design and conscious consumption–has also played an important role in empowering the brand to reshape the It bag and shoe of the moment.