When celebrated Venice, California restaurant Gjelina arrived in New York late in 2022, it was one of the biggest openings of the year with lines out the door onto Bond Street. The closing came quickly, however: a month later due to a fire and 10,000 gallons of water from the Fire Department to put it out. Two years and massive rebuilding later, though, it officially reopened in December serving vibrant dishes to a lively (especially on expansive restaurant’s second floor) crowd.
The Vegetable Focus At Gjelina
The focus, as ever, is local produce which as various critics have pointed out gives the Venice version an advantage during the winter. But New York’s head chef Jake Epstein doesn’t agree. “We remain committed to creativity, regardless of the season’s bounty,” he explains. “In New York, the winter months often mean working with farms that rely on longer-storing vegetables like celery root, storage beets and carrots, cabbages, and cultivated mushrooms. Working with farms as true partners means standing by them through the more scarce months, just as much as we enjoy the abundance of spring, which we can currently say is a breath of fresh air. And yes, when the moment felt right, we couldn’t resist bringing in a bit of California citrus to brighten things up.”
Gjelina’s Vibrant Menu
That means diners who go in now will find vivid dishes such as with Sugar Snap Peas with Kalamata Olive, Fennel and Mint; Asparagus with Romesco, Pecorino and Lemon and Brussel Sprouts with Chili Lime Vinaigrette, Walnut and Cilantro in the sizeable vegetable portion of the menu. Elsewhere on the menu are spirited dishes such as Kampachi with Pomegranate Aguachile, Crispy Garlic, Fresno Chili and Scallion from the Raw Bar; pizza variations such as Lamb Sausage, Asiago, Confit Tomato, Rapini, Pecorino Romano, Mint and Mixed Mushroom, Rosemary, Confit Garlic and Olive Oil. Even a dish that sounds less surprising such as Bangs Island Mussels with Countneck Clams, Tomatillo, Chili Oil and Grilled Bread is so delicious that more grilled bread must be ordered to sop up every last bit of the oil. It is, simply, a very addictive dish.
A Wide Ranging Mediterranean Menu At OPTO
Over in the Flatiron District. in the location that housed the longtime Greek favorite Periyali, co-owner Nicola Kotsoni has now transformed it into the wider ranging Mediterranean spot OPTO; there chef Alex Tubero’s passion for zesty preparations and high level imported ingredients is on full display. Starters such as King Salmon Crudo get an extra kick from the North African red chile pasta harissa, lime and sesame; Grilled Spanish Octopus from mint and aged Sherry; the popular Gem Lettuce Salad from Dill, Scallion, Cucumber and Sesame-Anchovy Vinaigrette. One holdover from Periyali that regulars from that restaurant always order: the handmade stuffed grape leaves Dolmades that literally do melt in one’s mouth.
Pastas roam around the region from the Spanish Fideuà de Catalana with Red Shrimp, Monkfish, Clams and Saffron, similar to paella but with short pasta instead of rice, and Tagliolini al Amalfi Limone with Cultured Butter and Parmigiano Reggiano blending in with the lemon to elicit the feeling of a sunny afternoon on the Amalfi Coast. Main courses from land include Filet Mignon Shish with the spicy cilantro sauce Zhoug, Spring Onion and Blistered Tomato and Rocky Mountain Lamb Chops with the Moroccan spice mix Ras el Hanout and Mint Chermoula, the North African herb sauce.
Even with a range of other options, though, the star of the menu is likely the Branzino flown in three times a week from the Canary Islands that adds a very crisp skin to the moist, deeply flavorful fish without drying it out. Tubero claims it’s the fish’s quality not his preparation since this branzino has an added layer of fat under the skin. Another branzino elsewhere will undoubtedly taste pretty ordinary after this one.
Desserts Not To Be Missed
At the end of the menu, the Lemon Torte Caprese is a pretty luscious, appropriate finish. But if you look around the tables (and photos on social media), the incredibly rich chocolate mousse under a cloud of whipped cream is being shared by other diners on friends’ dinners out. Selfishly, though, you’ll want to keep it all to yourself.