You might not immediately think of red wine when you think of Italy’s northeast, where white is the dominant category. But the region is home to indigenous reds—from Valpolicella, of course—to the Venezia/Veneto area and the Dolomites.
The Schiava grape produces a light-bodied red. In Italy, it is native to the South Tyrol/Trentino/Alto Adige region in the foothills of the Dolomite Mountains, and documented as far back as the 16th century. Today it is produced as a light wine with smooth, ripe tannins, floral violet notes and juicy berries. The grape has various names, depending on where it’s from, but many versions attach “Vernatsch” to the name (German for “vernacular”) and that makes sense in Alto Adige, where German is commonly spoken alongside Italian.
This version comes from Alois Lageder, a family winery established in 1823 and, today, a biodynamic producer in its sixth generation cultivating 30 varieties. The estate produces wines in three primary lines: Classical Grape Varietals, Compositions and Crus, and also smaller bespoke labels, Misto Mare, Comets and Rarum. The family has farmed biodynamically since 2004, becoming certified in 2008. They cultivate 135 acres of family-owned biodynamic vineyards and work with some 60 vintners in another 210 acres of organic or biodynamic vineyards.
Alois Lageder’s 2023 Schiava is redolent of plum and raspberry and on the palate delivers tart red and plush black fruits with some spicy undertones. This is a fresh, modern medium-bodied style, with smooth tannins that’s easy to drink and yet has a little earthy edge. There’s plenty of mouthwatering acid, thanks to the high-elevation vineyards and the cooling influence of the Dolomite mountains. The 2022 vintage echoed the 2023, its fruits a little more mellowed out and giving way to more forest-y floor and earthy notes. Serve at room temperature or with a light chill. Enjoyable with a range of foods, from pizza to roast salmon. SRP: $18 – $19