It seemed like an improbable takeover: a long-term touristy restaurant in the middle of that most touristy part of New York, Times Square. So there were many questions last month when acclaimed restaurateur Danny Meyer reopened The View, the bi-level, revolving restaurant in the Theater District atop the Marriott Marquis. Restaurants showcasing the view, particularly when they’re spinning, usually emphasize that view rather than the food. But Meyer, Founder and Executive Chairman of the Union Square Hospitality Group, responsible for critically lauded restaurants like the Union Square Café, Gramercy Tavern and The Modern, had a plan. And his reasons.
Why Danny Meyer Took On The Challenge
“Since I first moved from the Midwest to New York City in the 1980s, the Theater District has felt like the heartbeat of the city to me. It also has always held a special place in my heart,” he explains. “I spent my very first New York City night staying at the Algonquin Hotel, highlighted by dinner at Broadway Joe’s on Restaurant Row and a performance of the musical, Side by Side by Sondheim. Years later, I took my future wife, who’s an actress, on our first date for drinks at The Algonquin followed by the comedy, Noises Off. To this day, Audrey and I remain avid theatergoers—she usually selects the show, and I choose where we’ll dine before or after the performance. It’s been an incredible privilege to re-imagine The View and to lovingly create our own pre- and post-dining destination for theater lovers. Above all, I hope The View will provide New Yorkers and visitors alike with a fun and delicious opportunity to experience Times Square from a different perspective.”
A Major Decor Change
Meyer had not, admittedly, experienced the restaurant’s previous perspective, an all you can eat buffet popular with tourists but shunned by New Yorkers when it shuttered five years ago. But he knew the reputation and the first step to changing it was a more sophisticated design. Masterminded by the Rockwell Group, that means a cocktail lounge draped in blue velvet with a marble bar under a massive lighted globe on the 48th floor. The dining room on the floor below has deep red carpets, gold chairs, burl wood walls in a herringbone pattern and reflective metallic paint on the ceiling that intensifies the rotating 360 degree views. (45 minutes for a complete cycle in the upstairs cocktail lounge, an hour for a complete spin in the dining room.)
The Menu At The Cocktail Lounge
Within that setting, chef Marjorie Meek-Bradley, formerly the Corporate Executive Chef for STARR Restaurants, is turning out stellar, elevated versions of American classics. Upstairs in the lounge are raw bar stars such as oysters, shrimp cocktail, chilled lobster and tuna tartare on their own or together in The Grand Marquis, a seafood plateau that also contains scallop ceviche and blue crab salad. Cocktail party style nibbles such as wagyu pigs in a blanket and stuffed mushrooms are also available, designed to go along with an exuberant cocktail menu combining both classics and jazz riffs like the Katz’s martini fusing Brisket washed Bombay Sapphire with the pastrami spices from that famous deli on the Lower East Side.
The Main Dining Room Menu
Downstairs, Meek-Bradley keeps it elemental but extremely high quality with starters such as Jumbo Lump Blue Crab Cake with Spicy Remoulade, Beef Tartare with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Sunchoke Chips and a perfect crunchy, tangy Caesar Salad. Diners who get there early should get one of their limited number of Prime Ribs before they run out; other good choices are Bone-in Ribeyes, Seared Duck Breast with turnips and dates and Black Bass en Papillote with rich creamed spinach and even richer, cheesy potatoes au gratin.
Desserts also go back to basics but in a really luscious way. Classic New York Cheesecake is a bit lighter and creamier than the famous brick-like one available at the outpost of Junior’s across the street but with the essential cream cheese and slight vanilla flavor along with raspberry sauce and vanilla whipped cream; the Cherry Jubilee Sundae with stracciatella ice cream and brownie bits will bring anyone back to childhood ice cream confections. But the standout is the skyscraper Chocolate Cake composed of Devil’s food cake and chocolate caramel ganache drizzled with caramel sauce. It’s served on both floors and if the show’s curtain comes down after 10 when the dining room closes, the cocktail lounge is open until 12.