In late May, the courtyard of Château du Moulin-à-Vent fills with vignerons pouring the latest vintages under simple tents. Guests make their way from table to table, chatting with winemakers and tasting through the lineup of Gamay in the afternoon light. As the sun begins to dip, the action shifts behind the château to the vineyards, where blankets are unfurled and jazz musicians take the stage. The windmill that gave the appellation its name towers above it all — a steady presence in a region that continues to evolve.
The Jazz in Moulin-à-Vent festival has become a highlight for the area, drawing locals and wine professionals for a casual afternoon in a setting that belies the serious nature of the wines.
The quality of the region’s wine, however, is nothing new. Moulin-à-Vent was one of the first French appellations to receive official AOC status in 1924. Unlike its neighboring crus, which were mostly named for villages, Moulin-à-Vent took its name from the windmill that still stands as an emblem of the region. Its wines were historically sold not in nearby Lyon, like most Beaujolais, but in Paris — and often at prices on par with Premier Cru Burgundy.
Part of the reason for Moulin-à-Vent’s early alignment with Burgundy was due to the influential Cluny Church. This connection helped the wines gain prestige across France. During the 19th century, Moulin-à-Vent was often considered among the top red wine regions in the country. But the aftermath of World War II and the rise of Beaujolais Nouveau shifted attention elsewhere, and the appellation’s reputation dimmed.
Unlike the fruity, youthful reputation that shadows much of Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent is known for structured, age-worthy reds. Some attribute the difference to the dirt and climate, thanks to pink granite soils laced with silica, quartz, and iron oxide, and steady winds that limit disease pressure.
“The combination of the soil and environment we have here…explain why in Moulin-à-Vent specifically we produce very small, ripe, concentrated berries which after vinification will naturally lead to structured and more age-worthy wines,” says Édouard Parinet, owner and winemaker at Château du Moulin-à-Vent.
Édouard and his father Jean-Jacques bought the estate, which dates to 1732, in 2009, when it popped up for sale. They had an eye to restore it to its former fame which they’ve done through attention to detail including converting to organic farming.
Now, the appellation’s leadership, including Parinet, have made a case for official recognition of its best vineyard plots. Moulin-à-Vent’s Premier Cru application, submitted to France’s INAO, proposes an upgrade for 14 lieux-dits*, including Les Vérillats, La Rochelle, Rochegrès, and Les Thorins. These sites have long been respected for their quality and consistency.
“Certain vineyards deserve this recognition because they have always been recognized this way — except during the span of mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau from the 1980s to the 2000s,” says Parinet.
If approved, Moulin-à-Vent would become the first Beaujolais appellation to earn Premier Cru status. The proposal covers around 370 of the appellation’s 1,550 acres and has already sparked new interest.
Nearby producers in Burgundy had eyes on Moulin-à-Vent long before the recent INAO application, however, including Louis Jadot which bought Château des Jacques in 1996. Since then, others like Thibault Liger-Belair, Louis Boillot, and Albert Bichot have invested in the region.
Recent vintages help make the case. “2022 is a big boy, 2023 is the charming one, and 2024 has a very delicate and pure style,” says Parinet.
Charlotte Perrachon, winemaker of family-owned Château Bonnet, describes 2022 as warm and tannic and better suited for cellaring, versus 2023, which shows balance and complexity. She describes the 2024 vintage, which is still aging, as “fresh, with red fruit notes and elegant tannins.”
At the family–owned Domaine de Colette, Pierre-Alexandre Gauthier takes a simpler view on the matter. “Whichever vintage you buy, Moulin-à-Vents have always been and will be, exceptional wines.”
Nevertheless, the question remains: should consumers buy now, before a potential jump in price commensurate with recognition?
“It has already been a good deal to buy our wines these last years and it will surely keep on being this way… whether there is a 1er cru status or not,” says Parinet. Perrachon concurs. “Winemakers who may land Premiers Cru status will not change their wines and prices just because of that. I think so — and hope so.”
Regardless of status, producers have deepened their commitment to the region by converting to more sustainable, organic, and biodynamic farming practices. Currently, 11 of 14 domains have some form of sustainability or beyond certification.
Of 14 domains, 8 (57%) have a pending or active organic certification, called Agriculture Biologique (AB) in France; 1 has biodynamic certification; and 2 have HVE or Terra Vitis certification. These latter certifications are typically the first step to AB certification and are used by the domains to start their conversion to organic farming.
These decisions are driven both by health concerns and a desire to protect biodiversity.
“At the beginning of converting to organic farming, we wanted to reduce the exposure of our employees to dangerous products, simply for their own health,” says Parinet. “Looking forward, however, being certified helps us to prove to our clients of involvement and commitment to the land.”
Perrachon believes healthier farming practices results in better wine. “In my mind, organic wines have more complexity.” Gauthier, who also farms organically at Domaine Colette, agrees. “I find we have a better expression of the terroirs when there is more diversity in the plants and microbes present in the soil.”
The Premier Cru process will take time, and while some question whether it will shift pricing, the producers who work and live there remain dedicated to seeing their community flourish. For consumers, Moulin-à-Vent remains a source of serious wines at accessible prices.
This year’s Jazz in Moulin-à-Vent returns on May 31st, with producers once again pouring wines in the shadow of the windmill. If you’re looking to get to know these wines — or stock your cellar before Premier Cru recognition arrives — there may be no better setting.
Jazz in Moulin-à-Vent returns on May 31, 2025.
Accommodation is limited in the village. Consider booking the lovingly restored yet modern homes of Lisa Finet. She runs a villa and a smaller 2 room apartment. Her properties are on AirBnB as ‘Marcel I love you, house for 15 people’, and ‘At little Marcel’s.”
*The 14 lieux-dits up for Premier Cru status are Les Vérillats, La Rochelle, Champ de Cour, Carquelin, Rochegrès, Aux Caves, Les Thorins, Le Moulin-à-Vent, La Roche, Tour du Bief, Les Pérelles, Les Rouchaux, Au Michelon, Chassignol.