As the fashion week season draws to a close, it’s obvious that brands are feeling the pressure of growing economic instability. Rising costs and tightening budgets have seen many scale back shows or skip out entirely as they struggle to stay on official schedules.
These difficulties are increased exponentially if your home country is at war.
2025 marks the third anniversary of Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine. In recent weeks, efforts to find a solution have escalated—often unfolding with unexpected results including the outbreak of an argument in the Oval Office between US President Donald Trump and Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy. And with events fast-moving, Moscow and Washington are now set to discuss a 30-day ceasefire, according to US Secretary of State Marco Rubio with the latest reports suggesting that President Trump is urging Vladimir Putin to agree.
Despite the hostile environment, 2025 saw the second edition of Ukrainian Fashion Week since the invasion. Additionally, several brands from Ukraine managed to show at international fashion weeks for Autumn Winter ‘25.
“Through their continued presence on the fashion circuit, Ukrainian designers are showcasing their resilience—often at great cost,” explains Aleksandra Volkova, founder of the Ukrainian platform UA in UK. Volkova, who works with labels from Ukraine to raise their profiles internationally, wants to see more opportunities for Ukrainian fashion brands to gain recognition and establish connections around the world.
“Their efforts are a powerful reminder to all of us that creativity thrives—even in the most challenging of times, so it’s important they find the right support,” she says.
Additionally, labels are facing the fallout of an industry that, overall, is becoming increasingly unstable. According to Jean Gritsfeldt, whose brand Gritsfeldt was founded in 2012, the peak international interest in Ukrainian brands has started to cool down, especially as many markets are prioritizing local names. Plus, there are other factors. “Logistics remain a pressing issue, especially for those with production based in Ukraine. Small brands are also being held to high sustainability standards which larger, more established brands can often bypass,” adds Gritsfeldt, who staged a provocative runway show at Berlin Fashion Week during the first year of the invasion.
Against all the odds, a selection of brands showing on schedule around the world explain how they are coping with the difficulties of war-time fashion—in their own words.
Mitya Hontarenko from PLNGNS—Berlin Fashion Week
PLNGNS was founded in September 2021 to merge sustainability and innovation by transforming discarded sneakers into high-quality clothing. It retails from Bufet Socis Club in Barcelona, Studio Paillette in Paris, and Studio183 Berlin.
“Despite the war, our studio continues to operate in Kyiv, but it remains a constant challenge. We are located near the Lukyanivska metro station, an area frequently targeted by missile strikes. Last summer, a Russian attack destroyed the nearby “Ohmatdyt” children’s hospital. As a result, we continue to lose employees because, ultimately, safety takes priority—and we understand that. During our intense preparations for Berlin Fashion Week (February 2025), we faced a severe shortage of staff and resources. Yet, despite sleepless nights and overtime work, we successfully presented our collection. This was made possible in part thanks to the support of Berlin Fashion Week and Fashion Council Germany, which have been assisting us for three seasons through their concept competition in collaboration with the Senate Department for Economic Affairs, Energy, and Enterprises.
We see our work as something far greater than just creating clothing. Each of our pieces is a symbol of resilience, proving that creativity can thrive even under the harshest circumstances. This is an important case study for the fashion industry, which is long overdue for a shift in its approach to sustainability and resource management. However, our priority is pre-orders through our website to avoid overproduction, even though this is not always financially viable. Like most emerging brands, financial sustainability remains a constant challenge—we are always balancing on the edge. But our commitment to innovation and conscious consumption keeps pushing us forward. We are not just creating clothing; we are telling stories of change, hope, and transformation.”
Nadya Dzyak from Nadya Dzyak—Ukrainian Fashion Week
Since 2008, Nadya Dzyak has built its identity on craftsmanship, resilience, and community.
“We are based in Dnipro—500 km from Kyiv—our studio and production facilities have remained a sanctuary for creativity despite the immense challenges posed by the full-scale war. Our tight-knit team of 10 women has worked side by side for over 16 years, supporting each other like family. Adapting to a new reality, the war has significantly impacted our logistics. European fabrics were once swiftly delivered but now take considerably longer to arrive. Likewise, shipping our collections worldwide has become increasingly difficult due to disruptions in transportation from Dnipro. One of the core elements of our brand DNA is pleated fabric, meticulously crafted into geometric patterns. For the past 16 years, we have worked with the same pleating partner in Kharkiv. However, due to the war, the company had to relocate its production to a safer district within the city, navigating immense challenges to continue its work.
One of the biggest hurdles we now face is the frequent electricity blackouts. We deal with power outages and air raids. Every moment with power is precious, and we strive to use it as efficiently as possible. When air raid sirens sound, our entire team moves to a fortified bunker—once a bank’s secure vault—in our studio. This space has become a shelter, a place where we wait out the danger while continuing to support one another emotionally and psychologically. Despite these hardships, we remain committed to our craft. The Return of Ukrainian Fashion Week has been a breath of fresh air, a beacon of hope, providing much-needed support to our country’s fashion industry. In these uncertain times, such moments remind us why we do what we do—to create, to inspire, and to keep Ukrainian fashion alive on the global stage. Our journey is one of resilience, and as we navigate these challenges, we continue to find strength in our team, our craft, and our unwavering belief in the future of Ukrainian fashion.”
Tamriko Keburia from Tamar Keburia—London Fashion Week
Tamar Keburia has been creating womenswear that merges understated elegance with structural boldness since 2016.
“Today, running a brand during the war is a test of adaptability—logistics, production, and maintaining creative vision despite uncertainty. Manufacturing in Ukraine comes with challenges: supply chain disruptions, power outages, and shifting timelines. Moving materials, ensuring production, and supporting our team of 7 employees require constant problem-solving.
Yet, despite the difficulties, the commitment to craftsmanship and design remains unchanged. We are continuously working to expand our presence internationally and have shown at London Fashion Week. The war has made us more strategic, agile, and determined—pushing the brand to evolve in ways we never anticipated. Beyond operations, the war reshapes perspective. Fashion is not just about aesthetics—it’s about identity, continuity, and purpose. Designing collections while navigating these realities is complex, but creativity thrives under pressure. Every piece we create is a reflection of resilience and forward-thinking design.”
Lilia Litkovska from Litkovska at Paris Fashion Week
Founded in 2009, Litkovska integrates traditional craftsmanship into modern designs that showcase modern Ukrainian heritage and culture. It shows at Paris Fashion Week.
“Running a fashion brand during the war is like climbing Kilimanjaro—a test of endurance where every step demands commitment, and reaching the summit depends on the team beside you. That is why the Autumn Winter ‘25 collection, “3 a.m.—traverse”, is inspired by my ascent of Kilimanjaro with Ukrainian soldiers learning to navigate life with prosthetics. The collection was presented in a vintage market, a place outside of time, where the past and future quietly converge. No audience, just the space. It is about fashion’s ability to endure, not giving in to fleeting trends—something that became especially meaningful to me in the past years.
Leading Litkovska through these years has been much the same – pushing forward despite the weight of uncertainty, with supply chains disrupted, unpredictable production timelines, and the ever-present emotional weight. We expanded, strengthened our global presence, and deepened our commitment to preserving Ukrainian craftsmanship, with collections now available via 15 stores in Japan alone and over 50 retailers globally. We also returned to the American market and initiated projects beyond clothing, including art installations with Dover Street Market Ginza, charitable collaborations, and educational efforts through the School of Art & Craft. The war reshaped my perception of time, relationships, and values. It sharpened my sense of purpose: honoring traditions while redefining them for the future. Much as with mountaineering, the key is to find the right pace and just keep going—and we’ve been focused precisely on that.