Why A James Beard Awarded Brewmaster Wants The Future Of Beer To Be An Ancient Grain

Garrett Oliver has been with Brooklyn Brewery for 30 years. Over that time, he has held a reputation for impeccable craftmanship. As author of The Brewmaster’s Table, the mostly widely-cited book about food and beer pairing, and as co-founder of Slow Food USA, Oliver has also earned a reputation for his culinary approach to beer. And as founder of The Michael James Jackson Foundation for Brewing and Distilling, which is dedicated to funding scholarships for Black, Indigenous, and People of Color within the brewing and distilling trades, Oliver is equally known for having social impact.

As part of the celebration of his 30th anniversary with Brooklyn Brewery, Oliver has launched “Brewing For Impact,” a global collaboration with breweries to showcase fonio, an ancient West African grain that is environmentally-friendly, climate-resistant and supports communities in Africa.

“What I’m looking to do is bring fonio into the conversation worldwide,” said Oliver in an interview by video call. Oliver learned of the grain, which thrives in nutrient-poor soil in the arid regions near the Sahel Desert where other crops fail — without the need for irrigation, fertilizers, pesticides or other chemical inputs — in a TED talk by Chef Pierre Thiam, the chef behind Teranga, a celebration of Africa’s diverse culinary traditions boasting two locations in New York City.

“Fonio is a zero input grain,” said Oliver. “And by using it, we are also supporting thousands of small farmers in Africa. Best of all, fonio makes amazing beer. I’ve brewed with other ancient grains like spelt, einkorn and many others and a lot of people don’t like the nutty, earthy flavors of those grains. But fonio tastes great.”

Oliver notes that fonio has been cultivated in Africa for over 5,000 years and that Africa is also the original home of beer. “Brewing with fonio ties to the genuine history of beer,” said Oliver. If Oliver has his way, breweries will adopt fonio on a broad basis, helping them meet their climate goals while making better beer.

For his part, Chef Pierre Thiam is pleased Oliver is helping spread the word about fonio. Thiam founded Yolélé, which imports and distributes fonio and wants to see widespread use of the grain. Thiam uses the grain in his own restaurants. “It has a neutral flavor and is delicate in texture,” said Thiam. “This is what makes it versatile.” Thiam has used fonio in salads, porridges and even sushi and endorses Oliver’s use of it in beer.

Oliver first brewed a limited-edition beer with fonio in 2019, but for Brewing For Impact, Oliver has collaborated with breweries around the world to make fonio beers throughout 2024, being released by each brewery in their own markets.

The Michael James Jackson Foundation for Brewing and Distilling will receive a portion of the proceeds from all the beers released under the Brewing For Impact campaign. The beers, listed in order of their release, are as follows:

• In April, Maison Kalao of Senegal released Brooklyn A Dakar Pilsner. As fonio is grown in Senegal, the beer is an appropriate launch of the series of Brewing For Impact beers.
• In May, Thornbridge Brewery of the United Kingdom will release the first cask-conditioned ale brewed with fonio, a pale ale.
• Sweden’s Omnipollo will release Blacker Chocolate Stout, a reimagination of the first beer Oliver ever brewed for Brooklyn Brewery — Black Chocolate Stout — with a fonio twist.
• In July, Carlsberg Laboratory of Denmark will launch a 100% fonio beer.
• Acclaimed California brewery Russian River Brewery will release a Belgian blonde beer made with with fonio in August.
• In September, Oliver’s own Brooklyn Brewery will release a new pale ale brewed with fonio.
• China’s Jing-A Brewing will release a West Coast IPA made with fonio in October.
• In November, globally-iconic Guinness’s American arm will release Fonio Extra Stout.

Chef Thiam recommends pairing the beers with fonio chips. Chips made from fonio come in various West African inspired flavors and Thiam suggests they will pair perfectly with the beers.

“In some ways ‘Brewing For Impact’ is the most important work I’ve ever done,” said Oliver in a press release. “If what we’ve started truly catches hold in the industry, we will hopefully start seeing the wider use of a grain that has no need for irrigation, fertilizers, pesticides or other chemical inputs. It also supports soil regeneration while providing a vital source of income for thousands of smallholder farms in West Africa, which are predominantly female-led … all while making some really fantastic beers. What more can you ask for?”