Italy’s best-known beaches are renowned worldwide, thanks to their dramatic seascapes, sparkling seas and settings that offer other-worldly sunrises and sunsets. Fame brings crowding and over-tourism, of course, and while it’s a challenge to find an empty beach almost anywhere in peak season (except boat-access-only coves), there are plenty of under-the-radar and less frenzied spots with ample helpings of natural beauty and historic attractions. These places have not lost their local rhythms and charms to a tidal wave of tourists, and are frequented by Italians who live in nearby towns.
Here, three travel experts, Roberta Giovannina of Sanremo Experience, Cassandra Santoro of Travel Italian Style and Francesca Montillo of Lazy Italian Culinary Adventures share tips for finding these beaches and seaside resorts in some of Italy’s most in-demand coastal regions. I’ve also added a couple of my own suggestions.
LIGURIA
At her company Sanremo Experience, Roberta Giovannini, a longtime tourism executive in the region, specializes in travel experiences focusing on the Italian Riviera and Côte d’Azur. Her recommendations:
In addition to the famous and glamorous stops along the Italian Riviera, Roberta Giovannina delights in showing visitors the less familiar parts of Liguria. She says she loves Taggia, on the Riviera di Ponente not far from the French border, describing it as one of the most historic and cultural spots in the region. Taggia consists of two villages—Taggia itself which she says is a beautiful, medieval destination, and the nearby frazione, or hamlet, Arma di Taggia on the coast. In the seaside area you’ll find sandy stretches of beach with a mix of private lidos and public areas. Beaches here have earned the coveted Bandiera Blu status.
A former Roman outpost and an important trade center for the Republic of Genoa, Taggia is one of the Borghi Più Belli d’Italia. Giovannina likes to take visitors to the center of the medieval village where you’ll find ancient coats of arms embellishing building facades and fortified portals, and many botteghe selling handcrafted products from the town and nearby region. Among the other attractions are the arched Ponte Antico bridge from the Middle Ages, the ruins of a castle on a site affording great views, and the Convent of the Dominican Fathers with a work attributed to Parmigianino. The town is also famous for Taggiasca olives and the olive oil produced in the area.
“This is a tiny village, but the beaches are wonderful here,” says Giovannina. Said to be the smallest hamlet in the province of Imperia (and a short drive from Taggia), San Lorenzo has, in miniature, much of what the bigger resorts have to offer—a combination of sandy and rocky beaches with public areas and beach clubs, a centro storico dating from the Middle Ages, and a wonderful lungomare or sea promenade for evening passeggiatas. A popular lido is Bagni U Nustromu, which becomes a swirl of blue and green umbrellas in high season. San Lorenzo is also at the end (or beginning depending on the direction you’re coming from) of a 24-kilometer cycling path that starts/finishes in Ospedaletti. Giovannini calls the cycle path one of the Riviera’s “crown jewels.”
CAMPANIA
Cassandra Santoro is the founder and CEO of Travel Italian Style specializing in customized trips in Italy. Santoro says that while she enjoys the seaside life of southern Italy—her base is currently Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast—she frequently travels throughout the country to discover new experiences for her clients and has visited each of Italy’s 20 regions. Her recommendations:
“While not exactly hidden [with a location on the Sorrento Peninsula], Massa Lubrense has long been overlooked,” says Cassandra Santoro. “With its picturesque rocky beaches, wonderful dining options, scenic hiking trails and convenient proximity to Sorrento town and the Amalfi Coast, Massa Lubrense offers a refreshing alternative.” A range of accommodations are available from Termini to Nerano [frazioni, or hamlets, of Massa], she points out. “Recently, there has been a noticeable increase in interest for visitors, even though it was once only a place for locals.”
Santoro refers to Santa Maria di Castellabate, a two-and-a-half-hour drive south of the Amalfi Coast, as “a hidden gem tucked away in the territory of Cilento. You might recognize it from Benvenuti al Sud [a popular movie released in 2010],” she says, “but its real charm lies in [the] peaceful vibe. The seaside offers Blue Flag waters and a mix of sandy and pebbly beaches.” Santoro notes the town has plenty of local shops, restaurants and bars, and a great local cuisine. “Cilento is known for its focus on the Mediterranean diet and the mozzarella here is one of my favorites. Be sure to try the speciality, “mozzarella nella mortella” [prepared with age-old methods using myrtle leaves for preservation], for a true taste of the region.” For those interested in [ancient] history, the Parco Archeologico di Paestum is nearby, she says.
PUGLIA
For the past few years Gallipoli has been one of Santoro’s favorite summer getaways. “The town is located just 40 minutes from Lecce and boasts its own rich history. You can also enjoy sailing, charming accommodations, sunset bars, and delicious local eateries.” Within the town she says is the “serene Spiaggia della Purità,“ideal for a convenient free beach visit. You can [also] opt for one of the nearby traditional lidos if you prefer to rent chairs and have a full-out beach-club experience. Either way expect to enjoy the crystal clear water!”
CALABRIA
Francesca Montillo is the founder of Lazy Italian Culinary Adventures that offers planned and customized culinary tours throughout Italy, as well as virtual cooking classes. Montillo, who was born in Italy and now resides in the U.S., is the author of three popular Italian cookbooks. Her recommendations:
“Pizzo Calabro, or simply Pizzo, is one of the most beautiful towns in the Vibo area of Calabria,” says Francesca Montillo. “If you are looking for a place full of history, culture and natural beauty, it is the ideal destination. Start your trip by visiting the centro storico with its narrow, cobbled streets, lively squares and historic buildings, which create a magical atmosphere.” She gives Pizzo high marks for authenticity, describing it as the type of town where you come across children playing soccer in courtyards, and see laundry hanging on balconies while you wander small, easy-to-navigate streets. “The marina offers a great view of local life, too,” says Montillo, noting that you can watch fishermen heading out to or returning from the sea. She says it won’t be long before more people discover Pizzo. “It is gaining in popularity, but mostly from other Italians and not from folks outside Italy.”
Pizzo is home to more than ten churches, she says, “which is a high number for a town with less than 10,000 inhabitants.” Her favorite is the Chiesetta di Piedigrotta, located almost on the beach. Another recommendation for Pizzo is to stop at one of the many gelato shops and try the local specialty flavor, tartufo. “Each gelateria has its own version, and each claims to have the best,” she says.
“Squillace, a town of under 3,500 residents, which felt huge to me growing up in a place ten minutes away with a population of 1,000, is located on the Ionian coast, with great beaches, distinctive green-blue waters, a number of interesting churches and a castle,” says Montillo. “The Gulf of Squillace attracts most visitors and by most visitors I mean other locals from nearby towns or ex-pats such as myself who return every summer as the area is not yet widely recognized outside of Calabria.
“Squillace Lido Marina has rocky and sandy beaches, suitable for children and adults,” she says. “Here you will find beach clubs as well as free beaches, as the coastline is very spacious. The pine forest that surrounds this beach allows one to cool off on the hottest days. A few minutes away are Copanello and Caminia beaches with crystal-clear seas. Both are also very popular with locals during hot summer months.”
Montillo says travelers to Squillace should make a point of stopping by the Norman Castle in the historic center to see “a perfect example of medieval architecture. It has been remodeled several times due to earthquakes. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, consecrated in the 12th century, is also worth a visit.”
For souvenirs she suggests visiting the many artisan shops specializing in ceramics and pottery. “It’s a tradition of Squillace, which is one of the municipalities in Italy that can boast of having a DOC brand. The workshops are scattered throughout the historic center and you can watch the artisans at work.”
LIGURIA AND TUSCANY
Here are two of my own beach suggestions.
While Forte dei Marmi and Porto Ercole, Tuscany’s jet-set coastal resorts, are more widely known, Tirrenia is a favorite of area residents, who come for the wide sandy beaches and Bandiera-Blu-ranked seas. I experienced the beaches here when I was a student in Pisa, and took advantage of the balmy coastal climate, where you could often swim from May to October. Flanked by lush pine forests, Tirrenia, about a 25-minute drive from Pisa, has many private lidos, where umbrellas and loungers are available to rent. In addition to the beach, you can explore the Oasis WWF Dune di Tirrenia, a 24-hectare property with paths for walking and biking, and descriptive signage to help you identify plants and wildlife.
Along one of the most famous stretches of coast in Italy, not far from the glamorous yacht-centric Portofino, you’ll find the hamlet of San Michele di Pagana, a low-key destination that’s held on to a get-away-from-it-all vibe even though it is within walking distance of the famous resort, Rapallo. Despite the size of the village, there are major artworks to enjoy, like an Anthony van Dyck painting and other pieces by Luca Giordino and Guercino in the local church. The coastline is carved by three bays, where you’ll find small, pebbly sand beaches that offer both public spaces and private lidos.