Four Watch Brands To Reveal Bold New Timepieces At Watches And Wonders

As the Watches and Wonders fair draws closer, several independent watch brands are showing a willingness to embark in new directions based on the timepieces that will be revealed when the fair opens Tuesday.

For example, Gerald Charles is updating the legacy of its iconic namesake designer. Norqain is breaking new ground in customization. Czapek & Cie is creating contemporary dial designs using traditional artisan techniques. And Beauregard, known for its artistic gem-set women’s watches, will unveil its first men’s timepiece through a partnership with a master watchmaker.

Gerald Charles Masterlink

The watch brand named after one of the world’s most influential watch designers, will unveil a new timepiece at Watches and Wonders with a new case design and integrated bracelet that the company says represents an evolution of Gerald Genta’s legacy.

The “Masterlink” (top photo) uses Genta’s Maestro case as the foundation for a new 38mm square-shaped stainless-steel case with a proprietary curvaceous bezel that reveals a “smile” at 6 o’clock, the company says.

The integrated stainless-steel bracelet, one of Genta’s iconic design details, has been changed slightly with an asymmetrical design. The design at first mimics the curved smile detail at 6 o’clock. It then gradually straightens as it reaches the bezel’s straight top line at 12 o’clock.

The watch is powered by the caliber GCA 5401 automatic movement with a thinness of 2.7mm and a 50-hour power reserve. It features an offset micro-rotor, bridges decorated with snailing, Côtes de Genève finishes and circular graining.

It is available in a blue or silver dial with a sunburst finish.

Norqain Wild One of 1

Norqain will release a fully customizable watch that the Swiss brand says will provide 3.5 million possibilities to create a unique timepiece, based on the company’s popular Wild One collection. To achieve this, Norqain is using a 3D configurator tool developed by Swiss digital company, UDIMU.

The 11-step process begins by deciding on either an 18k red or white gold case. Next there’s a choice between Norqain’s exclusive Kenissi manufacture automatic movement or two skeletonized Sellita automatic movements, finished in either ruthenium or black ruthenium. Then there are six skeletonized and 12 solid dial options, with a choice of seven different sets of hands (two for the Kenissi movement and five for the Sellita movements). There’s a choice of four back plates in proprietary, colorized NORTEQ material. The signature NORQAIN plate that sits on the watch’s left flank is available in 18k red gold, white gold or one of four NORTEQ colors. Customers can add a personalized engraving. Then, there’s a choice of 12 colors of rubber straps. Finally, customers will be able to print an outline image of their choice on the caseback.

With all the possibilities, the company says the chances of creating two identical watches are extremely unlikely.

Czapek & Cie Promenade

The Promenade collection is the second introduction for Czapek & Cie at Watches and Wonders. The aim of Promenade is to express a modern idea of elegance that is chic, relaxed and easy to wear, with a slim case and a micro-rotor movement using the redesigned in-house SXH5 caliber, said Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek. The asymmetric dial has a seconds subdial at 4:30 decorated with traditional artisan techniques – guillochage and enameling – that reveal contemporary designs.

‘Goutte d’Eau’ (drops of water) uses grand feu enamel to create a depiction of a raindrop falling on the still surface of a pond to create ripples.

Guilloché ‘Soleil’ (sun) uses the seconds subdial as the sun with finely cut guilloché sunrays radiating from it.

The 38mm case was manufactured as slim as possible to house the caliber SXH5 automatic movement. Seven skeletonized bridges hold the gear train in place, the movement plates and bridges feature fine haute horlogerie finishes, including beveling, straight-grained sides and hand-chamfered inward angles. The micro rotor was created from 100% recycled platinum. It has a 60-hour power reserve.

Beauregard x Vianney Halter “Ulysse”

The founder of the Beauregard watch brand, Alexandre Beauregard, teamed with master watchmaker, Vianney Halter, to present the brand’s inaugural men’s watch: “Ulysse.”

The dial, meant to imitate stained glass, is made of 68 aquamarines set within intricately laid gold lacework.

The automatic movement is designed, developed and manufactured by Vianney Halter in his Sainte-Croix workshop that is decorated and finished by Alexandre Beauregard. It has a 56-hour power reserve.

The dial and movement are contained within a 41mm 18k rose gold case with a domed sapphire, engraved screw-down back with gold engraving highlighted in blue lacquer, and crown adorned with an aquamarine. The watch is completed with an alligator strap.

It is being offered in a limited edition of 10 pieces.

Gerald Charles Gem-Set Maestro

In addition to the Masterlink, the watch brand will unveil a colorful collection of gem-set timepieces under the Maestro name. They are the Maestro 8.0 Squelette composed of four new references, two versions of the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin and a Maestro GC Sport.

The skeletonized Squelette watches feature 66 invisible handset baguette fancy-cut gems set into an 18k white gold bezel. The gems, namely sapphires, are presented in four new shades: violet, orange, yellow and blue. It’s powered by the open-worked GCA 5482 caliber with a 50-hour power reserve.

The Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin features a steel bezel set with 52 round-cut gemstones, in three colors matching the watch dial’s sunburst finish: diamonds for the “Timeless Black,” dial, tsavorite for the “Emerald Green,” dial and blue sapphires for the Maestro GC Sport “Royal Blue” dial color.

The watches are powered by the caliber GCA 3002 automatic movement with a central oscillating rotor decorated with the Gerald Charles “honeycomb” motif. It hash a 50-hour power reserve.