In the landscape of American whiskey, it often pays to specialize. That’s partially because consumers have an historic array of options. The past 15 years have witnessed more than a 20-fold increase in the number of bourbon producers alone, most of them being smaller, craft producers. To stand out, today’s upstarts often lean in on a single type of whiskey, or at least a small subsection of expressions: bourbon, rye, wheat whiskey or the emerging American Single Malt category.
With every trend comes those willing to take the path less traveled (and often more complicated). For example, bourbon and American Single Malt are two styles with very different production demands (starting with grain) and value propositions (an established category versus an emerging one). It’s one thing for a conglomerate-owned operation to bet long-term and produce both; it’s another thing entirely for independent producers to take the dual resource gamble.
Despite these challenges, several craft distillers have found early success producing and selling both spirits. Here are four that stand out for the quality of bottlings, gradually building fan bases from coast to coast. (And of course, I’ve tried expressions from all four!)
1. Boulder Spirits
Scottish-born Alastair Brogan started Boulder Spirits with a focus on American Single Malt, years before the category was even on the radar for most producers. Today, Boulder Spirits produces a variety of American Single Malt expressions, including Bottled-in-Bond, peated and cask-finished varieties.
But their bourbon—a later addition to the lineup—has also begun turning heads. Aged in Colorado’s high desert environment, Boulder’s bourbon takes on a depth of flavor that rivals other whiskeys aged for twice as long (or older). Their cask strength bourbon is an especially eye-opening taste for folks who might start skeptical of Colorado-produced bourbon.
2. New Riff
To be broadly recognized as a “craft” operation, distillers need to produce under 750,000 proof gallons annually (among other requirements). Northern Kentucky’s New Riff Distilling is close to (but not over) that limit, and their bottlings are widely available in most major US markets. New Riff built their reputation on both bourbon and rye, aged for roughly four years. They also produce a variety of whiskeys made from heirloom grains.
More recently, New Riff’s Sour Mash Single Malt has made waves for the complex flavors it derives from its blend of six different mash bills, all different varieties of malted barley. (The spirit currently qualifies as an American Single Malt, though New Riff currently markets it as “Kentucky Single Malt.”) Their first bottling carries a seven year age statement and is bottled at cask strength.
3. Cedar Ridge
Iowa’s Cedar Ridge Distillery is beloved in their home state. Founded in 2005, they became Iowa’s first licensed distillery since Prohibition. Outside of The Hawkeye State, they’re quickly becoming a favorite among American whiskey social media influencers. The leaders of their core lineup are an 86 proof straight bourbon and 92 proof American Single Malt (the latter dubbed The QuintEssential™ for Master Distiller Murphy Quint).
Cedar Ridge’s American Single Malt is a marriage of aged distillate from over 20 types of aging and finishing casks, including port. It’s a dynamic pour with influence from both the casks and underlying grain, though the final drinking experience is ultimately a unique, fruit-forward dram.
4. Frey Ranch
Nevada’s Frey Ranch Distillery grows all their own grain, giving them an extraordinary amount of control over their base ingredients. Their bourbon and rye whiskeys are well known, especially for their bold cask strength expressions; their cask strength, four-grain bourbon is a decidedly uncommon type of expression in the American whiskey market.
More recently, Frey Ranch released a smoked American Single Malt. The process involved using a DIY smoker made from a reconstituted silo and making their own “peat” from decomposing plant matter sourced from their family farm. The resulting single malt is like campfire in a glass, with just enough tannic-forward sweetness to promote a long finish.