For years I gazed at the maritozzi in bakeries across Rome, admiring the perfectly sculpted brioche bun stuffed to the brim with whipped cream. Tempting, I’d always think, but not for me—I’m not a sweets person, and my pre-judgement was that it would be dense and overly sweet. It wasn’t until January 2024 that I finally broke down and fell victim to the allure of the cream-filled bun from a Regoli’s glass case that was practically calling out my name.
“When you see a maritozzo for the first time, you might think that with that much whipped cream it will be nauseating, but the answer is no,” Valentina Petraroli, a sought after food-focused tour guide in Rome, tells me over a text conversation. Most places don’t add sugar as it’s already naturally a bit sweet. “If they add a bit of sugar it is never too much and compliments the flavor of the sweet bun,” says Petraroli. To my surprise, she was on point: My first encounter was light, airy and a little bit sweet—and the whipped cream was simply perfect.
“Being born and raised in Rome, I had the chance to taste maritozzi many times and on different occasions,” she says. The pastry was quite popular during the Dolce Vita era of the 1950s and 1960s and became very sought-after again in the last few years. Maritozzi, coming from the word that translates to husband, was originally prepared for Italian men to give future brides on the first Friday of March. Some even put a ring or small gift inside.
Nowadays, it’s eaten as a breakfast alongside a cappuccino or as a dessert—and to share, if baked in the original size. When in Rome, here are a few of the standout places to indulge.
Regoli
As noted above, Regoli was my first dive into the land of maritozzi, and it’s worth the visit for the bakery aesthetics alone. “Regoli is certainly one the most famous pastry shops close to Piazza Vittorio,” says Petraroli. It’s a century-old, family-owned bakery that’s still got clout. “The dough is rolled out the day before and placed in the fridge to rest, and in the morning, it is taken out, flattened and directly placed in the leavening cell for a couple of hours,” she adds. “After this time, the maritozzo is left to cool and finally filled with soft whipped cream.”
Hotel Eden’s concierge told me via email that for most Romans, it’s practically the yardstick by which to measure all others. “Classic with cream or the Lenten version with raisins, it’s strictly according to tradition here,” the concierge team told me. The best way to enjoy one is by scoring a table outside and people watching with an espresso in the morning hours.
Roscioli Caffè
“Just on the other side of the river, you get to taste freshly baked maritozzi in a mignon version, made with the ingredients and artisanal work that the Roscioli family is known for,” says Petraroli. In January, Petraroli and I caught up here for maritozzi and coffee. She’s a fan of the mini versions as they’re just right for an afternoon snack.
Travel writer and co-founder of Saltete (expert written travel guides) Regan Stephens spent the past two summers in Rome during the month of August. “I’ve been dying to try maritozzi from Regoli but it’s always closed for holiday the entire month of August,” she tells me over text. “Instead, I get mine at Roscioli Caffè,” she explains, noting the consistency each time.
Il Maritozzaro
The no-frills shop has been serving traditional Roman pastries and espresso since the 1960s. It’s one of the best places to try the pastry and also one of the best, most unassuming breakfast spots in Rome. “Located near Stazione Trastevere, I’ve been here many times—especially during the evening after dancing, says Petraroli. “It’s a simple-looking place with amazing maritozzi in full size,” she adds.
I Dolci Di Checco Er Carettiere
In Trastevere, Petraroli notes that what’s on offer at I Dolci Di Checco Er Carettiere—a restaurant, gelateria, tavern and bakery stemmed from three generations—is a must for a mini version of an artisanal maritozzi. “I think they’re amazing and you can have a taste and not get too full.”
Il Maritozzo Rosso
Hotel Eden’s concierge recommended I check out Il Maritozzo Rosso, characterized by its savory maritozzi—also known as the perfect lunchtime snack or a tasty dish for a generous aperitif. I’m typically more of a salty snacks-craver so I’m here for savory maritozzi. “It’s a fantastic small place where you can taste and take away a delicious salty version of maritozzi so that you can eat it not just at breakfast with your coffee—but all day long with the amazing flavors of carbonara, cacio e pepe and amatriciana,” says Petraroli.
SantoPalato
A newer Rome staple, SantoPalato is helmed by chef Sarah Cicolini and features Roman and central Italian classics with a modern twist. Stephens is a fan of Cicolini’s maritozzi—a delicious and non-traditional take that’s “different and memorable.” Cicolini spins her recipe with burnt wheat, green pepper, vanilla and chantilly cream.
Il Giardino Bar At Hotel Eden
For a modern take in cocktail form, stop by Il Giardino Bar, featuring the city’s best rooftop views, for an Il Bombardozzo, a cocktail crafted with Vov liqueur, Vecchia Romagna brandy and coffee cream. It pays homage to the traditional maritozzo, which is the drink’s standout garnish.