From the busy Mongkok market to the rarified apartments on The Peak and the shimmering waters of the outlying islands, the Amazon Original series Expats starring Nicole Kidman offers a glimpse of Hong Kong through the eyes of a new transplant.
With or without the series, however, it’s hard not to see the appeal of Hong Kong, a city whose energy is palpable in the streets and continues to attract top talents the world over. Case in point: Filipino-American architect James “JJ” Acuña, an acclaimed hospitality and high-end residential designer who has called Hong Kong home for well over a decade.
The founder and creative director of multi-disciplinary design practice JJ Acuna / Bespoke Studio is behind some of the most stylish bars and restaurants in the city including Michelin-starred Hansik Goo as well as menswear lifestyle boutique Salvo. The studio also has hospitality and residential projects in Manila, Tokyo, Singapore and beyond.
The Cornell and Columbia alumni, Acuña has a knack for crafting timely yet timeless interiors with a global character. With a philosophy of forging “joyful connections” through design, he is always on the lookout for artistic haunts and spots that inspire creativity.
If you’re heading to Hong Kong for Art Basel in March or travelling to see how it’s changed post-pandemic, here’s an insider art and design guide recommended by Acuña to help you experience the city’s creative spirit:
West Kowloon Cultural District: M+ and Hong Kong Palace Museum
For the freshest art space in Hong Kong, look no further than the city’s newest established sibling cultural destinations: M+ and the Hong Kong Palace Museum.
M+ stands tall as a monumental architectural feat crafted by Swiss masters Herzog & De Meuron. This vertical skyscraper structure resembles a towering billboard, exhibiting an eclectic blend of art, design, fashion, and pop culture on its podium floor.
The vertical tower of artists’ studios and offices isn’t just a mundane backdrop—it’s a canvas for collaborative video installations with contemporary artists worldwide, brought to life through an innovative LED façade.
In a city renowned for its nightly light spectacle over Victoria Harbour and a legacy of neon signage—now nostalgically preserved within M+—this museum adds a new chapter to Hong Kong’s luminous narrative.
On the other hand, the Hong Kong Palace Museum offers a tranquil spot to see rare exhibitions of ancient scrolls, ceramics, fine art and other masterpieces from Beijing’s esteemed Palace Museum collection. Some of these treasures, sacred in their rarity, only grace the public eye for a fleeting month every few decades. This makes every exhibition at the Hong Kong Palace Museum unique, offering a short glimpse into the artisan cultures of China’s ancient past.
Tai Kwun Contemporary
Not to be overshadowed by the grandeur of its counterparts across the harbor, the more intimate Tai Kwun Contemporary, a 1500 square meter kunsthall, definitely packs a punch with its more in-the-moment and thought-provoking exhibits, catering to the entire family while refusing to compromise artistic integrity.
Its diverse exhibitions delve into perspectives often overlooked, championing the voices of underrepresented communities such as queer artists, women from across the globe, and Southeast Asian contemporaries, exploring their dynamic relationship with the greater bay area encompassing Hong Kong, Shenzhen, and Macau.
Also designed by the acclaimed Herzog & de Meuron, Tai Kwun Contemporary predates the likes of M+, and holds its own with spacious galleries, a captivating reading library, a chic gift shop, and a café offering panoramic views of its vibrant surroundings.
Chi Lin Nunnery and Song Chai Xie Teahouse
Chi Lin Nunnery is truly a marvel. Originally erected in the 1930s as a sanctuary for Buddhist nuns, this temple complex, nestled in Hong Kong’s Diamond Hill district, underwent a remarkable transformation, opening its doors to the public in 1998.
Under the visionary guidance of the head nun Ven. Shui Yung, the nunnery’s expansion was informed by the architectural principles of the Tang Dynasty, resulting in a breathtaking structure crafted entirely from cypress wood—no nails required. Notably, it stands as the world’s largest handmade wooden building, adorned with gilded halls dedicated to the Buddha, Bodhisattvas, and the compassionate Guanyin.
Whenever I find myself with a moment to spare, I make a pilgrimage to this sacred site, offering prayers and seeking blessings. And after immersing myself in the tranquility of the space, I wander across the bridge to the adjacent Nan Lian Garden, spanning 3.5 hectares.
This serene oasis, conceived through a collaboration between the Nunnery and the Hong Kong government, beckons with its ancient rock formations at The Rockery, captivating bonsai exhibitions, and the inviting ambiance of the Song Chai Xie teahouse. Here, amidst vintage teas and vegetarian dim sum delights, I find solace and a deeper connection with nature.
The Chinnery
Remnants of colonial Hong Kong culture still linger throughout the city, and one hidden gem is The Chinnery, nestled within the historic Mandarin Oriental flagship hotel, which has stood proudly since 1963.
Once a distinguished gentleman’s bar until the 1990s, The Chinnery exudes an air of timeless elegance, with interiors meticulously preserved to evoke the ambiance of its heyday. From the rich leather furnishings adorning the bar to the meticulously varnished mahogany woodwork and exquisite timber paneling, every detail transports patrons back to the 1960s.
For wine and whiskey aficionados, The Chinnery promises an indulgent evening, with a menu that pays homage to classic pub fare elevated in Mandarin’s renowned culinary style. Whether savoring hearty curries or gourmet sausages, guests like me are invited to relish in the charm of this sophisticated iconic establishment.
Oi! and Coffeelin Fortress Hill
Nestled within a historic yacht club structure and gardens dating back to 1908 in North Point-Fortress Hill, Oi! is as a haven for art seekers in search of serenity. When the hustle and bustle of Central or Causeway Bay becomes too much for me, I visit Oi!, where I can breathe while enjoying the work of local contemporary artists and artisans, as well as check out the surrounding harbor and gardens.
Whenever I’m in the area, I also swing by Coffeelin Fortress Hill, conveniently located across the street. With its tranquil courtyard offering glimpses of Oi!’s lush gardens and open spaces, Coffeelin is a retreat from the density of towers surrounding it.
Having designed and constructed Coffeelin towards the tail end of 2023, we were thrilled to unveil this Milanese-inspired cafe early this year. Ensuring a relaxed ambiance reminiscent of a charming piazza, the cafe invites guests to unwind over a cup of locally roasted Griso coffee from Milan after a day of enjoying art and open space at Oi!.
Big Wave Bay Beach and The Hong Kong Trail
Many overlook the fact that Hong Kong boasts an abundance of islands and beaches waiting to be explored. One place that’s near and dear to my heart is Big Wave Bay Beach, a brisk 45-minute hike from my doorstep in Chai Wan.
Setting off on the Hong Kong Trail from Chai Wan, I’m treated to a leisurely yet breathtaking stroll, offering panoramic views of Hong Kong’s rugged coastline and natural splendor.
As I descend towards Big Wave Bay Beach, the scenery undergoes a magical transformation. Picture-perfect waves beckon surfers to the forefront, while lush hillsides adorned with elegant mansions form a picturesque backdrop. Arriving at the beach, I’m greeted by soft, powdery sand and music from Bluetooth speakers. Freshly baked pizza, ice-cold beers, and espressos are served up at Eric’s Kitchen, perfectly positioned to overlook the shoreline.
Big Wave Bay holds a special place in my heart for its intimate charm—a welcome departure from the tourist traps found down the road at nearby Shek-O Beach.