Notes on new releases from a few Champagne producers that should be better known:
Legras & Haas (Chouilly) – Located in Chouilly, the northernmost village of the Côte des Blancs district in Champagne, where Chardonnay is the principal varietal, Legras & Haas is a family-owned producer that offers an excellent range of cuvées. The vintage Brut is consistently excellent.
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut – 100% Chardonnay from Chouilly, main harvest 2017. Disgorged April 2022, dosage 7.6 grams per liter. Aromas of chalk, lemon zest and pine. Medium-full with very good varietal character, good acidity, very good persistence and impressive harmony. Relatively straightforward, this is an approachable style to be enjoyed over the next 3-4 years. (88)
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Chouilly Brut Millésime 2015 – 100% Chardonnay from Chouilly; disgorged April 2022; dosage 6 grams per liter. Aromas of pear, brioche and pastry crust. Medium-full with excellent concentration, this offers beautiful structure, very good acidity, excellent persistence and complexity along with a flavorful finish with ripe fruit and distinct minerality. Very impressive now, this will improve over the next 4-7 years. (94)
Lancelot-Royer (Cramant) – Also situated in the Côte des Blancs, Lancelot-Royer is a grower Champagne estate that makes only Blanc de Blancs cuvées from estate Chardonnay vineyards. This is among the smallest of all Champagne producers, so their wines may not be easy to locate, but they are clearly worth the search.
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut “Cuvée des Chevaliers” – 100% Chardonnay from the villages of Cramant, Avize, Chouilly and Oger. Disgorged January 2023; dosage 9 g/l. Generous mousse; aromas of lemon custard, pear, and brioche. Medium-full, this has lovely ripe Chardonnay flavors, good acidity and impressive harmony; there is moderate persistence. I like the subtle style and freshness of this cuvée; enjoy over the next 3-4 years. (88)
Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Grand Cru “Cuvée des Chevaliers” – 100% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs; zero dosage. Aromas of lemon custard, Anjou pear and dried yellow flowers. Medium-full, this has a slight oxidative quality, which adds to its complexity. There is good acidity and a nicely structured finish with a light nuttiness. Drink over the next 3-6 years. (90)
Grand Cru Brut Millésime 2015 – 100% Chardonnay from the village of Cramant. Bright, medium yellow; aromas of brioche, chalk, apple peel and pear. Medium-full with very good concentration, there is lively acidity, excellent typicity and a lengthy finish with distinct mineral notes. Enjoy over the next 3-6 years. (92)
Jean Vesselle (Bouzy) – I reviewed this producer’s Rosé de Saignée and Oeil de Perdrix in a recent article; I also enjoyed their non-vintage Brut Reserve.
Brut Réserve – 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. Disgorged September 2022. Bright, deep yellow with a hint of copper; aromas of brioche, baked pear and hints of caramel and honey. This offers a rich mid-palate, very good acidity, and lovely harmony throughout. There is a very subtle brown spice, nutty quality in the finish that adds to the appeal. Predominantly Pinot Noir, the varietal flavors emerge beautifully in this wine. Enjoy over the next 4-6 years; most veal or pork preparations would be a perfect match. (92)
Champagne André Robert (Le Mesnil sur-Oger) – Situated in the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil sur-Oger, considered by many to be the signature village of the Côte des Blancs, Champagne André Robert produced its first Champagnes for the market in 1962. Today the fifth generation of the Robert family has continued the work of founder André and produces a half-dozen cuvées; the most distinctive of these are partially aged in oak barrels.
Blanc de Blancs 2017 “Les Jardins de Mesnil” – Aromas of lemon peel, yellow flowers and subtle wood notes. Medium-full, this is quite rich on the palate and offers excellent varietal character, impressive harmony and a lengthy finish. There is a subtle minerality in the finish. Enjoy over the next 5-8 years. (91)
Les Vignes de Montigny Extra Brut – A blend of 50% Meunier, 50% Pinot Noir; base 2019 vintage; 65% of the wine is vinified in small barrels; aged on the lees for 10 months. Disgorged March 2023; dosage 3 g/l. Beautiful bright medium yellow; rich, appealing aromas of brioche, pear, yellow plum and a hint of caramel. Medium-full with excellent concentration; lively acidity, impressive persistence and notable complexity. I love the finesse and long finish of this wine; there are notes of plum and pear in the finish. Enjoy over the next 6-10 years. Lovely, exquisite wine of stellar harmony. (94)