Every year since 2009, the World’s 50 Best Bars has released its list of top tipple temples from across the globe. Not once has a single bar from Africa ever made that list. It actually remains the only habitable continent on earth to have never secured such a spot. And it’s not for lack of trying. There are countless candidates from Morocco all the way down to Cape Town befitting of the merit. None are knocking on the door quite so loudly as Hero Bar in the heart of Nairobi, Kenya.
Leading the charge is Shamim Ehsani, the bar’s founder. The affable character is something of a local fixture in the prestigious diplomatic district of the bustling capital. He serves as Hero’s creative director and can frequently be found holding court in the rooftop space, with the city’s striking skyline shimmering along the horizon.
He is continually developing new concepts related to food and beverage—building out a themed menu inspired by superheroes, and attracting world-class talent for an ongoing series of bar takeovers. More recently, he’s bankrolled a state-of-the-art cocktail lab on property, complete with induction tops, dehydrators and rotovaps.
In other words, he’s checking all the boxes that the World’s 50 Best judges notoriously expect to be checked. He’s finding some degree of validation, too. In 2023, Hero ranked #62 on the list (despite its name, the competition now publishes a second tier group for spots 51-100)—the premiere perch for any African bar. And Ehsani is doing all of this while still running and managing the 5-star Tribe Hotel next door.
But this is a man who lives and breathes hospitality. So, despite the fact that his days are long, they tend to be filled with more joy than stress. In an exclusive interview with Forbes, he shares some of the secrets to his success. And talks about how he has managed to finally bring an African bar into the “World’s 50 Best” conversation.
What inspires you most about today’s cocktail scene?
Shamim Ehsani: “The creativity in the methods used to extract flavor, or instill character to cocktails by bars around the world continues to inspire me. From Diego Cabrera’s (Salmon Guru) technique of submerging bottles to the ocean floor, to Iain McPherson (Panda and Sons) applying his knowledge and training from ice cream production to creating cocktails; it’s inspiring to learn about people who push the envelope in such creative ways.”
When did you become interested in bringing high-minded cocktails to Nairobi? Is there a specific moment of inspiration that you can point to, where a lightbulb went off?
SE: “In creating the concept for Hero, we explored and imagined what superheroes would drink; this exercise yielded some interesting results, including milkshakes, and root beer floats as well as cocktails. The milkshakes and floats didn’t fit with the food offering, so we crossed those out and dived deeper into the cocktail idea. It was also clear, from the onset, that we wanted to have a complete and intentional zero-alcohol offering to complement the cocktails, because not all superheroes drink.”
Can you describe what the cocktail scene was like in Nairobi before Hero Bar opened?
SE: “Very few bars in Nairobi offered original cocktails as recently as four years ago; and if they did, the drinks were overly sweet, fruity concoctions with a lot of syrup. Never before has the bartender community been as vibrant and exciting as it is right now, they’re also very supportive of each other and open to collaboration.”
Describe the concept and menu at Hero.
SE: “The space is designed as a speakeasy, with a long bar through the middle, which separates the more loud and social terrace area from the quieter and more intimate gallery side. The menu serves Japanese inspired food alongside a menu of entirely original cocktails, and an all-ice-cream dessert menu. Designed as a comic book, the drinks are categorized by the strength of the serve; Heroes (strong), Sidekicks (less strong), and Law Enforcement (zero ABV) – we have also recently introduced a category for Sensei Sips, which are recipes created for us by traveling bartenders and masters of the industry, who have visited Hero for guest shifts and takeovers.”
If there was a signature cocktail at Hero Bar, what would it be? Tell us the name and what goes into preparation.
SE: “Loki’s Cup: Tanqueray (45 ml), Martini Rosso (15 ml), Bulleit Bourbon (15 ml), Angostura Bitters (2 dashes) – smoked with applewood under a handblown glass cloche designed by Kenya-based glass blower, Anselm Croze.
Talk about the guest bartender program. What have been some of the highlights so far. And why is it so important to bring in this international talent? Who do you think it benefits?
SE: “We have been extremely fortunate to have so much interest, from bars around the world, to participate in our guest bartender program. Standouts have included Bar BenFiddich and the SG Club, both from Tokyo; Little Red Door from Paris; Handshake from Mexico City, and Baba Au Rum out of Athens. The guest bartender program really benefits everyone; the visiting bartenders get exposure to new ingredients, and an opportunity see a new city and expanding their global reach; the city gets access to incredible global talent; the bartender community has the opportunity to learn through the masterclass, and our team is able to spend time with the talent; learning, but also showcasing the best of Nairobi in a mutual exchange. The collegial and collaborative atmosphere amongst the bartender community is extremely inspiring, and expanding this family of innovators across the world can only be of benefit.”
What, in your estimation, describes a World’s 50 Best Bar? What are some of the hallmark characteristics that they all share?
SE: “The offering across The World’s 50 Best Bars is extremely varied. A common thread, across the bars I have visited, is the personality behind the brands; and the innovation and intention they bring to their offering. There is an intention to push the boundaries, and elevate cocktails through a mastery of flavor and presentation; creating a sense of wonder and exploration.”
Why do you think it is that no bar in all of Africa has yet to clear that threshold?
SE: “With social media and the internet, access to information has been democratized; this exposure has elevated the standard of the bar industry and also allowed African bartenders to expose their talent to a broader audience. Never before has there been so much interest in what is happening on the African continent, across fashion, flavor and design – the world can expect a lot more innovation from the continent.”
What would it mean for your bar to be recognized on an international scene by something like World’s 50 Best?
SE: “We’re already so proud of what the team has achieved, and it would be a confirmation of what we’ve known for many years: that the talent in Kenya can compete on a global stage. Putting Kenya and, more broadly, Africa on the map as a source of culinary and hospitality innovation has been our Northstar since we opened Tribe, our first venture in hospitality.”