Circuitous are the ways restaurants are conceived, none more so than Orienta, which originally debuted in Manhattan in 1995 and is now set on the Long Island Sound in a small space whose interior would look just as seductive on the Saigon River. Shadowy but richly colorful with pink and green palm wallpaper, lipstick red banquettes, white tablecloths, Venetian blinds and a cartoon of a dog wearing a nón lá “leaf hat,” it’s a place where you half expect Michael Caine to show up wearing a khaki shirt with a gorgeous Vietnamese woman in a silk ao dai tunic. Slowly turning ceiling fans would be a nice touch.
Instead you are greeted by a beautiful blond Russian woman, Kate, wife to Chef Adrien Blech and daughter-in-law of the owners, Antoine and Suzanne Blech, who are French. The loud American music doesn’t quite fit the scenario, nor does the blasting of “HAPPY BIRTHDAY” for a celebrant. But Orienta isotherwise a very warm and inviting room, with a good bar and exotic cocktails
I don’t usually cite individual waiters for praise, but ours, named Michael, was as fine a server as I can recall, in full command of the menu and wine list as he is helpful and friendly without crossing into being your pal.
The elder Blech, a musician, had previously worked at New York’s French bistro Le Bilboquet and the swanky French-Vietnamese Le Colonial before opening the first Orienta in Manhattan (now closed); now, with Suzanne, he also run the French bistro Le Penguin next door and Le Fat Poodle in town. When in the dining room he adds a good dose of Gallic savoir-faire to the evening.
The younger Blech has done stints Le Bernardin, Soho House LA, Le Royal Monceau, Guy Savoy and his parents’ other two restaurants. Yet he has never set foot in Asia, instead learning from all his father had while working in New York. To Asian dishes, then, he adds French precision, both if flavors and presentations.
The menu is admirably just the right size for a table of four to sample a wide array of dishes, from dumplings to pho, and not everything on it is Vietnamese. It should be noted that Vietnamese cuisine was highly influenced by French cooks when the country was dubbed Indochine as a French colony, and there is little of the chile-based heat in the food you find in China and Thailand.
An irresistible starter is a good portion of the “Rockstar shrimp” ($26), with a crisp iceberg lettuce and a sweet chili sauce, fit for four people to pop in their mouths. Hamachi crudo ($22) has a fine luster sparked with moderately spicy Fresno chili avocado and cucumber with a yuzu dressing. It’s difficult for me ever to say no to baby back ribs, and Orienta’s are delicious ($23), very tender and meaty with Japanese barbecue sauce and cabbage slaw. We ordered an array of pan-fried dumplings, one with Napa cabbage, carrots and a house dipping sauce with fried shallots and coriander ($14) as were Pork dumplings ($16). Unexpected and highly recommended was a serving of silky eggplant roasted in the Japanese style ($10).
As noted, portions are generous, which goes for the main courses like the sea bass ($36) and the lovely presentation of the white salt and pepper cod ($37) with toasted sesame fried rice, Broccolini, carrots and snow peas. A big bowl of garlic fried rice is not to be missed as a side dish ($10). Saigon chicken—half a bird— is caramelized then grilled to crispiness, served with sautéed pea shoots ($30). Star anise in a dark reduction buoys a breast of duck with Thai chilies and pea tendrils ($38).
The only dish that was bland, perhaps by comparison, was the Vietnamese pho ($30) with a choice of chicken, shrimp or beef. A shot of that special sauce might improve it measurably.
Asian desserts on their own are afterthoughts in most restaurants, but Orienta’s Key lime pie ($15), Mandarin chocolate mousse with a heaping of whipped cream and candied orange ($15) and coconut panna cotta ($15) are all well worth ordering, with two forks or spoons.
Orienta’s wine list is of sufficient size and range for food with this kind of seasoning and spice, not least a fine red Sancerre ($68; about $30 in a wine shop).
One easy-to-fix peccadillo: Throughout our meal the table was never crumbed, and with these sauces and finger foods, it can get messy, especially by dessert.
As a family affair Orienta works in a way that is palpable from the greeting through the end of the meal. But please don’t ask for the birthday song, which not really either a French or Vietnamese tradition.
ORIENTA
55 Lewis Street
Greenwich, CT
203-489-3394